The exquisitely preserved ruins of the ancient city of Acatitlán are just a short drive from Mexico City.
Acatitlán, formally known as Santa Cecilia Acatitlán, is an archaeolgocial site near the Chichimec stronghold of Tenayuca in Tlalnepantla de Baz, Mexico state.
The Nahua name Acatitlán roughly translates as the place of the reeds, likely a reference to its far-out location in the periphery of Mexico’s Central Valley.
According to the Xólotl Codex, Tenayuca was founded in the 8th century by Chichemec migrants moving in from the north.
Like Tenayuca, Acatitlán fell under Aztec dominion in 1425 when the Nahua began to expand the reach of their once modest empire to the entirety of the Valley of Mexico, down the coastline, and then through most of Central America.
Archaeological evidence suggests that Acatitlán was likely just as large as Tenayuca, but during the conquest, most of its structures were leveled to build churches and administrative structures.
Given the ravages of the city, it is quite remarkable that any of its structures survived at all, let alone in a state which allowed for such a level of reconstruction.
The main, and really, the only temple still standing at Acatitlán is simply known as La Piramide, which is dedicated to the powerful deity known as Huitzilopochtli.
In Mexica and later Aztec mythology, Huitzilopochtli played several roles being simultaneously the god of war, the sun, human sacrifice, and later the patron of the Aztec capital of Tenochtitlan.
It is more than a little ironic that Huitzilopochtli, being a conquered people’s god of war, would be so thoroughly adopted by their conquerors, the Aztecs.
The temple to Huitzilopochtli at Acatitlán lay within a large fenced-off area adjacent to a museum exhibiting several pieces excavated at the site.
The front of the temple is dominated by a large staircase leading up to a structure atop a large base covered in imagery making reference to Huitzilopochtli as a god of war.
The top of the temple is crowned with skulls that resemble an elevated tzompantli, or skull rack, characteristic of cultures from Central Mexico, but also seen in sites much farther afield, such as Chichén Itzá in Yucatán.
Tzompantli are of course closely associated with Huitzilopochtli in his role as a war god, but also as the main Aztec deity of human sacrifice — for reasons which should be fairly obvious.
Several other sculptures and figures have been unearthed at Acatitlán, most of which exhibit the figures of eagles and jaguars, the animals that represent the two main elite Aztec castes of warriors.
There is no denying that Mesoamerican cultures, especially the Aztecs’, could be violent. After all, the abundance of skull imagery and the emphasis on sacrifice is one of this civilization’s most recognizable aspects.
But there are several important things to keep in mind. First of all, archaeological evidence suggests that human sacrifice, even among the Aztecs, was much rarer than previously thought. When these sacrifices did occur, they were in carefully choreographed sacred rites, and usually performed on prisoners of war — through practices such as the sacrifice of an incarnate god — more on that another time — certainly also took place.
When it comes to the image of the skulls, here we must remember that Mesoamerican cultures are coming from a very different cultural/symbolic context. While the figure of a human skull surely was meant to be powerfully intimidating, it also carried another meaning. This secondary meaning, which is still present in Mexico’s cultural imagination, makes reference to the fact that underneath it all, we are all the same. The rich, the poor, the leader, and the follower at the end of the day will be reduced to exactly the same thing, a collection of bones and eventually dust.
If you go
To visit Acatitlán, go during the weekend when traffic is not as bad. Otherwise, avoid rush hour unless you want to spend hours in one of Mexico City’s infernal traffic jams.
When staying in Mexico City, getting to Acatitlán is quite easy. There are several options including public transit on Mexico City’s metropolitan Metro Bus system, as well as taxis and cars summoned on ridesharing apps. While in the area, make sure to check out the nearby site of Tenayuca, as well.
