Adidas Accused of Cultural Appropriation for Indigenous-Inspired Sandal

Mexico’s government demands compensation from Adidas after accusing the sports giant of copying traditional indigenous footwear without permission or proper credit to its creators.

The controversy centers on the “Oaxaca Slip-On,” a collaboration between Adidas Originals and Mexican-American designer Willy Chavarria. The sandal features braided leather straps similar to traditional huaraches worn by Zapotec indigenous communities, particularly in Villa Hidalgo Yalalag.

Oaxaca Governor Salomón Jara Cruz called the design cultural appropriation in a Wednesday video posted on social media. “This is not just a design, it is about the culture, history and identity of an original people and we will not allow it to be treated as merchandise,” he said.

The governor demanded that Adidas withdraw the shoe, publicly acknowledge the Yalalag community as the design’s originators, and begin compensation talks with indigenous artisans.

President Claudia Sheinbaum confirmed Friday that Adidas was already in talks with Oaxacan authorities about providing “compensation for the people who were plagiarized.” The government is also preparing legal reforms to prevent the copying of Mexican handicrafts.

The case highlights Mexico’s growing efforts to protect indigenous intellectual property through federal legislation. The Federal Law to Protect the Cultural Assets of Indigenous and Afro-Mexican Communities, enacted in January 2022, recognizes collective intellectual property rights and prohibits unauthorized use of cultural expressions. Penalties range from approximately $48,000 to 4.8 million Mexican pesos.

Chavarria, born to an Irish-American mother and Mexican-American father in California’s Central Valley, has built his career celebrating his Chicano heritage through fashion. The 57-year-old designer recently won Time magazine’s recognition as one of the world’s 100 most influential people. He previously served as Senior Vice President of Design at Calvin Klein before focusing on his eponymous label.

Chavarria told Sneaker News he intended to celebrate his cultural heritage through an Adidas collaboration. “I’m very proud to work with a company that really respects and elevates culture in the truest way,” he said.

However, critics argue that China-manufactured shoes exploit Oaxacan heritage while providing no benefits to indigenous artisans. Viridiana Jarquín García, a huaraches creator in Oaxaca’s capital, called the Adidas shoes a “cheap copy” of work that takes time and care to craft. “We’re losing our tradition,” she said.

Handicrafts provide jobs for around 500,000 people across Mexico, accounting for about 10% of gross domestic product in states like Oaxaca, Jalisco, Michoacán and Guerrero. The industry represents thousands of years of cultural development, with techniques passed down through generations.

The controversy follows similar cases in which Mexico has challenged international brands. In 2021, the government previously accused Zara, Anthropologie and Patowl of cultural appropriation, demanding public explanations for using indigenous patterns without permission. French designer Isabel Marant later apologized after similar accusations.

Cultural appropriation remains a sensitive topic, though perspectives vary. One Yucatecan writer noted that many Mexicans welcome respectful cultural representation but draw the line when companies profit without acknowledgment or reciprocity.

The Adidas case could test Mexico’s new legal framework for protecting indigenous heritage. If Oaxacan authorities file a formal complaint with Mexico’s federal intellectual property agency, Adidas could be blocked from selling the shoe domestically.

Adidas has not publicly responded to the controversy. The “Oaxaca Slip-On” has not yet been released for public sale, though images have circulated widely online.

The dispute adds momentum to growing international discussions about the fashion industry’s responsibility toward indigenous communities. Several governments have begun taking more aggressive stances against cultural appropriation, signaling potential changes in how global brands approach traditional designs.