Anahuacalli
The name Anahuacalli translates from the Nahua languages as "Home of the Anáhuac," a term that itself means "surrounded by water."Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
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Diego Rivera’s Anahuacalli Archaeological Museum and its New Exhibits

The name Anahuacalli translates from the Nahua languages as “Home of the Anáhuac,” a term that itself means “surrounded by water.”

The Anahuacalli Museum, located in the far south of Mexico City, stands as a singular monument to Mexican art and culture. 

Conceived by the muralist Diego Rivera, the Anahuacalli is a contemporary structure that draws heavily from the architectural traditions of ancient Mesoamerica.

In recent years, the museum has undergone a dramatic transformation, which has seen it bring even more ancient artifacts and works of Diego Rivera on display.

Its design is a fusion, incorporating elements reminiscent of the Maya, Zapotec, and Teotihuacano cultures, creating what Rivera himself described as an amalgam of Aztec, Maya, and his own “Rivera Traditional” style. 

The building that houses the Anahuacalli museum is a modern interpretation, yet its narrow halls and chambers evoke the powerful atmosphere of an ancient temple. 

The museum’s courtyard, flanked on the opposite side by a ring from a Prehispanic ballcourt, is also home to structures inspired by Mitla’s architecture, as well as a sunken patio characteristic of several Mesoamerican cultures. 

El Pueblo Mérida

The sensation of walking through the interior of the Anahuacalli is not one of a conventional museum but of a sacred space designed for contemplation. This feeling was entirely intentional as Rivera envisioned it as a teocalli, or house of energy. 

The interior of the Anahuacalli is organized to represent the indigenous cosmos, with a dark underworld on the ground floor, an earthly realm on the first level, and an upper world on the top floor.

The structure itself is constructed from carved volcanic stone. This material is not merely an aesthetic choice but is deeply connected to the history of the valley. The stone was sourced from the Pedregal, a lava field created by the eruption of the Xitle volcano. 

This eruption destroyed the nearby ancient city of Cuicuilco, considered one of the oldest archaeological sites in central Mexico. By using this stone, Rivera’s museum is physically and symbolically linked to the region’s profound geological and historical past, anchoring a modern project in the remnants of a primordial catastrophe.

A Legacy of Rivera and Kahlo

The Anahuacalli museum was a project that Rivera and his wife, the painter Frida Kahlo, envisioned as more than just an exhibition space. They had expressed a desire to use the structure as a mausoleum where they would be interred. 

This plan, however, never came to pass. The construction of the Anahuacalli was a monumental task that Rivera did not live to see completed. Upon his death in 1957, the Anahuacalli was finished by architects Juan O’Gorman and Heriberto Pagelson, along with Rivera’s daughter, Ruth Rivera Marín, with financial support from Dolores Olmedo. 

The museum was finally inaugurated on September 18, 1964. The foundational stone bears an inscription in Rivera’s memory: “I return to the people what I could rescue from the artistic heritage of their ancestors.”

The Anahuacalli and Curatorial Approach

The Anahuacalli houses a vast and invaluable collection of pre-Hispanic artifacts. In his lifetime, Rivera amassed a collection of nearly 60,000 pieces, which he intended as a legacy for the people of Mexico. 

The museum displays roughly 1,000 objects, including Teotihuacan masks, funerary urns, and sculptures from various Mesoamerican cultures such as the Olmec, Totonac, Mixtec, and Zapotec. 

However, the Anahuacalli museum’s warehouse houses 60,000 artifacts, several of which have yet to be cataloged. 

Also on exhibit on the museum’s top floor are massive preparatory drawings and sketches made by Rivera for some of his most famous works. Among these are the large-scale charcoal studies for “El hombre en la encrucijada” (Man at the Crossroads), the controversial mural originally commissioned for the Rockefeller Center in New York, as well as studies for murals in Detroit and the Palace of Cortés in Cuernavaca. 

The notable preparatory works include those for “Proyección de la gran Tenochtitlan” and “Pesadilla de guerra, sueño de paz”. Rivera stipulated in his will that these sketches must remain permanently in the museum.

While the quantity and quality of the artifacts are impressive, the museum has a distinctive curatorial approach. Because these items come from Rivera’s private collection, their provenance is often uncertain. 

Furthermore, some objects are displayed in a manner that some consider anachronistic, and they lack traditional museographic elements, such as detailed informational placards, that would help visitors make sense of their historical and cultural context. 

According to the museum’s website, this was an intentional choice, as the presentation was designed to prioritize the artistic quality and aesthetic impact of the pieces over a strictly archaeological or historical order, reflecting Rivera’s own vision for his collection.

In all honesty, I do not really buy this explanation, but then again, it’s a claim difficult to disprove. 

The Anahuacalli museum also hosts workshops for children, youth, and adults on topics such as Mesoamerican art, contemporary painting, and pottery-making. 

The Anahuacalli museum opens from Tuesday to Sunday from 11 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. The entrance fee is 120 pesos for foreigners and 100 pesos for Mexican nationals.

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