Where to Find the Best Barbacoa Hidalguense in Mérida
Unlike the grilled meats commonly associated with “barbecue” elsewhere, authentic Mexican barbacoa is entirely different and steeped in tradition and regional variations.
A tradition born from the earth
The word barbacoa comes from the Taíno people of the Caribbean, who used it to describe meat cooked over an open fire or in underground pits. When Spanish colonizers arrived, they encountered Indigenous groups in Mexico, including the Aztecs and Maya, using similar techniques. Over time, these methods merged with Spanish influences, giving rise to the barbacoa we know today.
Hidalgo, the home of barbacoa
In Tulancingo, Hidalgo, the cradle of contemporary Mexican barbacoa, this staple is more than just food—it’s a cultural institution. The state’s semi-arid highlands provide the perfect conditions for raising sheep, which became the star of the dish. The traditional pit-cooking method, passed down through generations, transforms tough cuts into succulent, falling-off-the-bone meat infused with smoky, earthy flavors.
Traditional Hidalguense barbacoa is synonymous with slow-cooked sheep. The process begins late at night or before dawn, with the whole sheep (or large cuts) seasoned with a simple yet powerful blend of garlic, onions, bay leaves, dried chillies, oregano, cumin and cloves.
The meat is then wrapped in maguey (agave) leaves, which impart a distinct herbal aroma, and placed in an underground pit lined with hot stones. The pit is sealed, and the meat cooks for six to 12 hours, steaming in its juices until impossibly tender.
The result? A rich, slightly gamey, but not overpowering, flavor with a melt-in-your-mouth texture. The consommé, a byproduct of the cooking process, is served as a fragrant broth alongside the meat, often with chopped onions, cilantro, and lime for brightness.
No barbacoa feast is complete without salsa borracha (a spicy, pulque-based sauce) or salsa verde for an extra kick. Pair it with pulque (a traditional fermented agave drink) for the full Hidalgo experience.
Birria and barbacoa de res
Originally from Jalisco, birria is a close cousin of barbacoa — traditionally made with goat (chivo), though beef is now common. The meat is marinated in a guajillo and ancho chili paste, then slow-cooked until tender. Unlike Hidalgo’s pit method, birria is often braised in large copper pots (cazos), resulting in a rich, spicy broth.
In states like Nuevo León and Chihuahua, beef replaces sheep or goat. The most prized cut? Beef cheeks (cachete), which become incredibly tender when slow-cooked. Northern barbacoa is often prepared in steam ovens rather than pits, but it still retains deep flavors from dried chilies, garlic, and cumin.
Finding great barbacoa outside of Hidalgo
Barbacoa has spread far and wide in Mexico and beyond. Still, just as any Yucateco would insist you can only get cochinita pibil in Yucatán, those from Hidalgo are just as adamant that barbacoa is worth a culinary pilgrimage.
That said, at least for Mérida, after much gastronomic research, we at Yucatán Magazine would have to say that the best and most authentic Barbacoa Hildaguense is to be found just beyond the periferico in Chichí Suárez.
At Barbacoa Tulancingo, you will find delicious flautas, tlacoyos, consome (a type of soup with chickpeas), and sopes, all stuffed with barbacoa. The blue corn tortillas are certainly nothing to sneeze at either. Remember that just like most barbacoa joints, Barbacoa Tulancingo opens at about 7 a.m.and starts shutting things down at 1 p.m.
Senior Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a journalist, photographer and adventure leader. Born in Mérida, Carlos holds degrees from universities in Mexico, Canada, and Norway.
