Beyond Cozumel’s beaches are fascinating Mayan ruins to explore

In the 10th and 11th centuries, Yucatán’s great Post-Classic city-states entered a period of sharp decline.

But while Chichén Itzá and Uxmal suffered from a rapid loss of influence and population, much of the Mayan world’s attention shifted to the resource-rich coastline of today’s Quintana Roo.

The area had already long been home to settlements and cities like Chunyaxché, but during this time, the population along the region known as Costa Orienta (eastern coast) began to take off.

One of the city-states that saw the most growth during this time is on the Caribbean island of Cozumel, roughly 10 miles from Playa del Carmen, or Xaman Há, as it was known during antiquity. 

The Yucatán Peninsula’s largest island, Cozumel, is home to several Prehispanic ruins, but the largest is San Gervasio.

By the time Cozumel saw its population explode in the 10th and 11th centuries, San Gervasio had long been established as an important pilgrimage site dedicated to the goddess Ixchel. 

The oldest examples of large-scale megalithic construction at San Gervasio date to the 3rd century C.E and can be found at the site’s core. However, much of the architecture seen today was extensively modified in the following centuries. 

San Gervasio’s main acropolis or square comprises eight structures, including El Palacio, the Temple of Columns, and the Ossuary. 

This acropolis likely served as the city’s most important civic and ceremonial center, with priests and the ruling elite taking center stage.

Although faded, red paint remains on Structure O, commonly known as The Murals. 

Migrants from the mainland brought with them their own takes on religious art and architecture and dramatically altered the layout and feel of Costa Oriental sites like San Gervasio. 

Adjacent to the acropolis, it is possible to see the remains of structures thought to have been the residence of San Gervasio’s elite ruling class. 

Away from the core of the site, following the path of ancient sac-bé, it is possible to encounter some of San Gervasio’s most beautiful ruins. 

Slightly to the north of the site’s core, it is possible to see a Maya corbel arch, though it is much more deteriorated than its counterparts at sites like Uxmal or Kabah. 

The Murcielagos (bats) complex toward the north of the ruins of San Gervasio features some of the site’s most sophisticated architecture. 

To the northwest of the site is one of San Gervasio’s most impressive structures, the Ka’na Nah, which translates from Yucatec-Maya as “the tall house structure.”

San Gervasio is also home to several species of birds and mammals, including bats living in the site’s many caves.

If you go

To get to San Gervasio from Cozumel’s largest city, “San Miguel de Cozumel” (roughly 10 miles apart), opt for a taxi, rental car, scooter, or even bicycle.

But the best way to see San Gervasio and the rest of the island is to rent a car, as taxis in Cozumel are expensive and likely to leave you stranded.

General admission to San Gervasio is 85 pesos and free to students and teachers. On Sundays, entry is free for Mexican nationals and residents with ID. 

Carlos Rosado van der Gracht

Senior Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a Mexican expedition/Canadian photographer and adventure leader. Born in Mérida, Carlos holds multimedia, philosophy, and translation degrees from universities in Mexico, Canada and Norway.