It’s Not Just Another Café. Cafetería Pop is an Icon and Part of Mérida’s Soul.
Some places simply become part of Mérida’s soul. For over five decades, Cafetería Pop has been one of these places.
It’s more than just a café. Cafetería Pop is a gathering point that has witnessed generations unfold. Inaugurated on April 18, 1971, it has become one of Mérida’s most iconic eateries—a time capsule of orange tables, green chairs, and curved gray wall reliefs that tell the story of a city in constant motion.
Walking through its doors immediately brings me back to going for breakfast with my dad, wearing my signature Superman pajamas and cowboy boots. To this day, if I go with my dad (who they recognize because he’s a regular), some of the older staff still refer to me as Superman, which is hilarious.
The story of La Pop began with a bold vision. Founders Amira Peniche, Lizbeth Castilla, and Gilberto González brought it to life, but it was Amira’s artistic eye that truly defined its character. Inspired by a trip to London and the bold spirit of Pop Art, she envisioned a space that defied the norm. The interior burst with 1960s flair—gray curves on white walls, vibrant green and blue circles, and orange tables with green chair covers. It was a statement, perfectly aligned with the cultural shifts of its time.
You can’t talk about Cafetería Pop without mentioning the mural behind its bar, featuring images from an album by a Chilean folk rock band called Quilapayún. This piece of art has been at the café since the very beginning and serves as a not-so-subtle nod to the café’s deep roots in the cultural movements of its time. I once spoke about the mural with one of the waiters, who told me a tourist had said it felt outdated. The waiter simply smiled back and told the woman, “If we painted over the mural or replaced it, we’d probably have a riot on our hands.” No one with any taste or common sense would want to do such a thing anyway.
La Pop quickly became a haven, first for students—it’s nestled next to what was then the main building of the state university—and later for a broader cross-section of Mérida. Its strategic location near theaters and museums naturally drew in musicians, writers, journalists, and families, both local and foreign. It even offered a revolutionary source of comfort in Mérida’s warm climate, being the city’s first non-hotel restaurant to provide air conditioning—a luxury that delighted early patrons.
What truly sets Cafetería Pop apart, beyond its distinctive decor and prime location, is its people. The loyalty of its long-term employees has created a rare sense of continuity. Among them, José Luis Aguilar, a waiter who dedicated 43 years to La Pop until his passing in 2015, became a cherished legend. Current administrator Alejandro Mena Peniche fondly recalls José Luis’s incredible memory for customers and his deep love for his work.
Today, under Alejandro’s guidance since 2013, Cafetería Pop continues to serve new generations alongside those who remember its early days. Regulars often remark on how little the cafe has changed—a comforting constant in an evolving city. The menu, too, remains a link to the past, with beloved dishes like huevos motuleños and chilaquiles for breakfast, and filete a la tampiqueña, club sandwiches, and hamburgers for lunch, all crafted with unique, time-honored recipes. Even the Chiapan coffee, sourced from the same distributor for years, speaks to this commitment to quality.
The café’s resilience was tested during the COVID-19 pandemic, but Alejandro’s dedication ensured every employee was supported through the challenging closure. This commitment to its people and principles has allowed La Pop to thrive for over five decades. Customers consistently praise three pillars of its success: quality, price, and the warm, genuine treatment they receive. Alejandro emphasizes this philosophy, noting that people feel at home, often having their usual order anticipated by the attentive staff.
With its iconic glass facade, Cafetería Pop remains a vibrant window into the daily life of Mérida’s city center. It draws in locals and visitors alike, from early morning coffee drinkers to families savoring traditional Yucatecan breakfasts. La Pop is a testament to the beauty of consistency in a fast-paced world. Its familiar bar, cups, tables, and chairs are quiet witnesses to the city’s constant flow — a reminder that some things are meant to last.
In a Mérida that grows and modernizes with each passing year, Cafetería Pop offers something invaluable: a place where time slows down, where families spanning generations share meals and stories, and where the orange tables and green chairs have absorbed countless moments of daily life. It’s not merely a place to eat; it’s a living repository of shared memories, a cultural landmark, and an affirmation that remaining authentically yourself can be the most potent response to change.
While the annexed Pórtico del Peregrino caters to a different crowd, La Pop captures the unpretentious, welcoming, and enduring heart of Mérida, much like the city itself.
Senior Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a journalist, photographer and adventure leader. Born in Mérida, Carlos holds degrees from universities in Mexico, Canada, and Norway.
