The charm of Campeche’s coast and delicious cuisine
Campeche is a state with much to offer beach lovers, though it draws far fewer visitors than its neighbors Yucatán and Quintana Roo, home to Sisal and Cancún. But being less visited by international tourists is not without advantages, as much of its 404 kilometers (251 miles) of coastline is typically uncrowded.
Because Campeche’s coastline does not have large resort communities, most cities and towns feel more authentic than Tulum or Playa del Carmen on the opposite side of the Peninsula. Less tourism also means that accommodations are considerably less expensive, as is the food — especially seafood.
Isla Arena
Just across the state line with Yucatán, south of Celestún, sits Isla Arena, a tiny island famous for its laid-back attitude, gorgeous beaches, and delicious ceviche. Accommodations on Isla Arena emphasize authentic experiences over luxury, with cozy eco-lodges and family-operated guesthouses providing comfortable bases for exploration. Many offer guided excursions that reveal the island’s natural wonders and cultural traditions.
Reaching Isla Arena is part of its allure. The island lies approximately 120 kilometers (75 miles) northeast of Campeche City within the municipality of Calkiní. Though counterintuitive, the distance is roughly the same from Mérida, which is actually a little easier because less of the trip is on tiny roads. Head south until reaching the town of Halacho, then turn north after el remate Cenote and continue for about 20 minutes.
Playa Bonita
Although Campeche’s capital city, San Francisco de Campeche, is on the coast, its waters are unsafe for swimming due to pollution runoff. This is why when most locals feel like hitting the beach, they make their way to Playa Bonita, located on the outskirts of town, just past a tiny community known as Lerma.
The gentle waves make it ideal for swimming, while the surrounding palm trees provide natural shade. Local seafood shacks serve up fresh grilled fish, adding to the authentic coastal experience. This said it’s also a great place to enjoy one of Campeche´s most iconic dishes, pan de cazón. Despite what its name might suggest, this hearty dish has no bread in it but is instead, at its core, a casserole-like dish built upon layers of corn tortillas, each stuffed with beans, tomato sauce, and shredded cazón, a species of shark common to the Gulf of Mexico. The dish is topped with pickled onions, fresh habanero salsa, a whole habanero pepper (because more is better), and sometimes a sprinkle of hard-boiled egg or slices of avocado.
Seybaplaya
Located about 30 minutes from Campeche City, Seybaplaya is a charming coastal town with a long, sandy beach that stretches along the Gulf. The water is typically calm, and the wide shore is perfect for leisurely walks or beach games. Fishermen often bring their daily catch here so visitors can enjoy some of the freshest seafood in the region. The nearby malecón (boardwalk) is a lovely place to take an evening stroll while watching the sunset over the water.
The town’s best beach is Payucan, and on weekends and holidays, it is full of stalls selling fresh fish, shrimp cocktails, and probably the best and most abundant ceviche I have ever been served, and that is saying something. For some reason, in some communities in Campeche, including Seybaplaya, ceviche is often referred to as an enchilada, which translates to salad. This is confusing but allows you to say, “Oh, I just had a salad for lunch.”
Champotón
Known for its historical significance as the site of an ancient Mayan port, Champotón features a long coastline with several beach areas to explore. The Río Champotón meets the sea here, creating a unique blend of fresh and saltwater environments. The beach is popular for fishing, and visitors can enjoy boat rides along the river or simply relax under a palapa with a refreshing drink in hand. The nearby town offers a glimpse into local life, with colorful buildings and small markets selling regional crafts.
Ciudad del Carmen
Situated on a slender island bridging the Gulf of Mexico and the Laguna de Términos, Ciudad del Carmen blends rich history with coastal beauty. Once a notorious pirate stronghold, this bustling port city now serves as Campeche’s economic hub while hiding some of the region’s most underappreciated beach treasures.
The city’s best beach, Playa Bahamitas draws residents with its shallow, bath-warm waters, incredibly fine white sand, and swaying coconut palms. On weekends, the beach comes alive with the sounds of laughter, volleyball games, and regional music drifting from portable speakers, while waterfront palapa restaurants dish up local specialties like arroz a la tumbada, a savory seafood rice dish.
Senior Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a Mexican expedition/Canadian photographer, adventure leader, and PhD candidate. Born in Mérida, Carlos holds multimedia, philosophy, and translation degrees from universities in Mexico, Canada and Norway.
