Campeche’s stunning Maya architecture museum is a must-visit
Campeche’s Museo de Arquitectura Maya is a fascinating museum housed within the Baluarte de la Soledad, one of the eight stone bastions that formed part of the defensive walls surrounding the city during the colonial period.
As its name implies, the museum focuses on Maya architecture, showcasing artifacts, stelae, and architectural elements from various Maya sites in the state, including Edzná, Calakmul, and Becán.
Though Campeche’s architecture and archaeology museum is rather small compared to Mérida’s Museo del Mundo Maya or Mexico City’s Museo Nacional de Antropología, it is still easily worth a visit.
The museography packs a lot of information through detailed explanations of artifacts and their elements. There are also a handful of braille and audio stations for the hearing impaired.
A focus on architecture
As the museum’s name implies, Maya architecture is at the heart of most exhibits. This means that architectural elements represent various architectural styles. In Campeche, these include the architectural forms known as Puuc, Chenes, and Petenero, which are on display for visitors to appreciate and get a complete view of their similarities and differences.
This is especially important as many visitors and even locals to the region don’t fully appreciate just how varied Maya architecture is. Moreover, many of the Yucatán Peninsula (Campeche included) sites are full of archaeological sites that owe their appearance to styles from outside the Maya world. A notable example of this can be found in the architectural elements of sites like Edzná, which blends various Maya styles with Teotihuacán and Toltec influences.
The Calakmul Mask
Despite the museum’s focus on architecture, one of its biggest attractions is a gorgeous funerary mask discovered in the ancient city of Calakmul.
Known simply as the Calakmul Mask, this jade artifact is believed to date back to the Late Classic period (600–900 CE) when the city of Calakmul was one of the most potent and influential centers of the Maya world. Located deep in the jungles of what is now the Mexican state of Campeche, Calakmul was a rival to the famed city of Tikal and a key player in the political and cultural landscape of the Maya lowlands. The mask is considered part of a ceremonial offering or a funerary adornment, possibly associated with a high-ranking elite or ruler.
Crafted with exquisite detail, the mask is made of stucco and painted with vibrant colors, many of which have remarkably survived the passage of time. The face depicted is serene and idealized, with finely sculpted features that reflect the Maya’s reverence for beauty and symmetry. The eyes, nose, and mouth are delicately rendered, and the mask is adorned with symbolic elements, such as headdresses or ear ornaments, which likely signify the wearer’s status and connection to divine or ancestral forces.
One of the most striking aspects of the Calakmul Mask is its cosmological significance. In Maya culture, masks were not merely decorative objects but powerful symbols of transformation and connection to the spiritual realm. They were often used in rituals to embody deities, ancestors, or supernatural beings, allowing the wearer to transcend the human world and commune with the divine.
The Setting
The museum is housed within a Baluarte (fortification) building, which was built to protect the city from Dutch and English pirate attacks in the 17th and 18th centuries. Because it is possible to climb to the top of this fortification, splendid views of the city’s historic center can be easily seen.
During the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries, Campeche flourished as a vital port in the Spanish colonial empire. Its harbor was a hub for exporting precious goods, including dyewood and silver, which were highly prized in Europe. However, prosperity came at a cost. The wealth flowing through Campeche made it a prime target for pirates, who roamed the Caribbean Sea for plunder.
Pirates as famous as Francis Drake, Henry Morgan, and Laurens de Graaf (known as “Pegleg the Pirate”) were among the many who sought to raid the city’s riches. The pirates’ attacks were not just about loot; they were acts of terror designed to destabilize Spanish control and spread fear among the population.
In response to this constant threat, the Spanish Crown authorized the construction of a massive defensive system to protect Campeche. Beginning in the late 17th century, the city was encircled by a hexagonal wall measuring approximately 2.5 kilometers long, reinforced by eight formidable bastions.
Getting there
Campeche’s Museo de Arquitectura Maya is open Tuesday through Sunday from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. General admission is 70 pesos, though, on Sundays, entrance is free for Mexican citizens and permanent residents with an INAPAM card (who can get in for free any day the museum is open).
Senior Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a Mexican expedition/Canadian photographer, adventure leader, and PhD candidate. Born in Mérida, Carlos holds multimedia, philosophy, and translation degrees from universities in Mexico, Canada and Norway.
