What to Expect As Mexico City Prepares to Celebrate its 700th Anniversary
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What to Expect As Mexico City Prepares to Celebrate its 700th Anniversary

Celebrations are gearing up for the 700th anniversary of the founding of Tenochtitlán by the Mexica in 1325, which, after the conquest, became known as Mexico City. Over the past few decades, it’s become common for capitalinos to refer to their city as Mexico-Tenochtitlán, thus making the city’s true foundation date 1325, not 1521, when…

Taking the Tren Maya From the Cancún Airport: The Good, the Bad, and the Confusing

Taking the Tren Maya From the Cancún Airport: The Good, the Bad, and the Confusing

The Tren Maya Cancún station was meant to help exhausted air passengers reach their final destination with ease. The system, however, still needs some fine-tuning. I recently traveled to several European countries and then flew over the Atlantic Ocean back to the Yucatán Peninsula from Paris. But getting from the airport to the train station…

Chetumal, Quintana Roo’s Underrated Capital
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I Was Wrong About Chetumal, Quintana Roo’s Underrated Capital 

Let’s be honest. Chetumal doesn’t have the most exciting reputation. Many Mexicans barely remember it exists. This unassuming city is the capital of Quintana Roo, but overshadowed by flashier neighbors like Cancún and Playa del Carmen. But here’s a secret: I have a soft spot for Chetumal. No, it’s not a dreamy honeymoon spot, but…

Mural of Afro-Caribbean Belizean women.
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The Vibrant, Gritty, and Colorful Hodgepodge That Is Belize City

Belize City is far from a sanitized tourist paradise. It’s raw, real, and full of character.  Here you will find Belize’s largest urban center, a lively, unpolished hub where Caribbean rhythms, an ancient Maya past, colonial history, and modern Belizean life collide.  The city has seen major improvements in recent years, with better roads and…

Uncovering Guanajuato: A City of Many Layers and Rich History
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Uncovering Guanajuato: A City of Many Layers and Rich History

Living in Merida for 10 years has had its challenges with direct flights to desirable destinations. Avoiding the chaos in Mexico City has always been top of mind. As much as I adore the city and visit it frequently, making connections through MEX has been problematic. With the expansion of our airport, direct flights have…

Playas en el estado de campeche
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The charm of Campeche’s coast and delicious cuisine

Campeche is a state with much to offer beach lovers, though it draws far fewer visitors than its neighbors Yucatán and Quintana Roo, home to Sisal and Cancún. But being less visited by international tourists is not without advantages, as much of its 404 kilometers (251 miles) of coastline is typically uncrowded. Because Campeche’s coastline…

Life Moves Slowly in Tepakán, One of the Most Charming Yucatán Pueblos
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Life Moves Slowly in Tepakán, One of the Most Charming Yucatán Pueblos

Life moves slowly in Tepakán. This small town between Motul and Izamal keeps alive a Yucatán that feels authentic, far from the influence and rhythms of the city. We visited Tepakán on a Saturday and found it exceptionally quiet. The midday heat drives locals away from public spaces, but in the afternoon, families can be…

Cozumel’s airport growth spurt looks to attract direct flights from Europe

Cozumel’s airport growth spurt looks to attract direct flights from Europe

Cozumel’s airport is upgrading its main runway and terminal to accommodate larger aircraft capable of long-haul flights from Europe. The island’s airport was originally not much more than a simple landing strip used by the military — but little by little domestic charter airlines began to fly in from major Mexican cities like Monterrey and…

Fishing boat in Yucatán Mexico
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An angler’s search for tarpon in the Yucatán 

Fishing boats are fishing boats. Some differences in beam and length, draw and height, construction material, and means of propulsion, but basically, they take you to the fish. However, when it comes to fly fishing, there is a clear-cut difference between a drift boat on a trout river and a tarpon boat in the mangroves….

Man in Tixkokob Yucatán with hammock
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For hammocks, take the Tren Maya from Mérida to Tixkokob in under 30 minutes

Despite being only a 40-minute drive from Mérida, the town of Tixkokob does not attract many tourists, which is a shame as it has plenty to offer—including the nearby archaeological site of Aké.  Tixkokob’s origins can be traced back to the pre-Columbian era when it was part of the province of Ceh-Pech. The town’s name,…

Archaeological site of Kabah in Yucatán
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Guided tours of Mexico for this fall and winter

We are pleased to announce three upcoming tours guided by Carlos Rosado van der Gracht for the fall/winter season. The experiences range from excursions to uncover Mérida’s ancient past to day trips to the most underrated sites in Yucatán; as well as an adventure to Mexico City where we will dive into some of the…

Join us in December for a Mexico City archaeology extravaganza
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Join us in December for a Mexico City archaeology extravaganza

The metropolitan area of Mexico City is a treasure trove of archaeological wonders, but the vast majority of visitors only ever explore the Templo Mayor and the National Museum of Anthropology. In addition to these two unmissable spots, this tour will also be visiting impressive archaeological sites including Tlatelolco, Cuicuilco, Tenayuca, Santa Cecilia Acatitlán, Mixcoac,…

Royal Caribbean cruiseship
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A new cruise terminal in Chetumal could change the fate of Mexico’s most neglected capital city

Royal Caribbean has announced the construction of a Chetumal cruise terminal. Chetumal’s cruise terminal would be the third in Quintana Roo after Mahahual and Cozumel — Mexico’s most prominent cruise destination. Buy why? The reasoning behind the construction of this new terminal has many locals scratching their heads. Despite facing the Caribbean Sea, Chetumal is…

Church with cablle cars in the sky in Zacatecas
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Despite travel warnings in Zacatecas, the sun shines, along with its silver

Government travel warnings tell us that Zacatecas is not a “safe state” like Nayarit or Yucatán, but to discount it completely would be a mistake. After all, Zacatecas can be seen as a microcosm of sorts regarding the ills that afflict Mexico in general.  Zacatecas is known for its baroque architecture, steep alleyways, historical sites,…

Mérida’s Plaza Grande facelift: Old shade trees out, modern benches in
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Mérida’s Plaza Grande facelift: Old shade trees out, modern benches in

Since its start last April, the remodeling of Mérida’s iconic Plaza Grande has raised eyebrows. One of the most surprising aspects of this project was how little it was publicized beforehand. From the air, the changes to the Plaza Grande seem relatively negligible. The main difference is the loss of several mature trees. Former Gov….

San Simón — Beyond Uxmal and Into the Wild
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San Simón — Beyond Uxmal and Into the Wild

Ten miles south of Uxmal’s majestic ancient Puuc capital is San Simón, a tiny community where people live off the land, much like their Maya ancestors. In San Simón, cell phone service and amenities are limited to a small shop selling the basics. The nearest options for anything more than that are Muna or Santa…

Why Durango may just be Mexico’s most underrated city
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Why Durango may just be Mexico’s most underrated city

Even for most Mexicans and the most intrepid explorers, swaths of the country fly under the radar, and this is a shame. Durango de Victoia, the capital of Durango state, is one of these places. Before last spring, if you had asked me what came to mind when I thought of Durango, my answer would…

Maya Balloon festival lights skies over Tahmek
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Maya Balloon festival lights skies over Tahmek

The sky over Tahmek was alight with color as the Globo Maya Festival began, marking the start of a magical celebration in the heart of Yucatan. Dozens of vibrant balloons, each one a testament to the creativity and skill of artisans from Yucatán, EdoMex, Hidalgo, Veracruz, Morelos, Michoacán, and CDMX, soared above the excited crowds….

The collapse of a sacred ceiba tree into a cenote is seen as a sign
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The collapse of a sacred ceiba tree into a cenote is seen as a sign

Last week, the tiny town of Xocén made headlines after a 100-foot-tall ceiba tree collapsed under its massive weight into a sinkhole. However, being located in Yucatán, it soon became apparent that this was not simply a sinkhole but a previously undiscovered cenote.  Speleologists are just now beginning to explore the secrets of Xocén’s cenote…

Maya women at Uxmal
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Maya Women Reclaim Their Heritage and Livelihood Through Uxmal Archaeological Project

In the heart of Yucatán, Mexico, a group of Maya women from the village of San Simón have embarked on a journey to reconnect with their ancestral heritage while securing their financial independence.  Through a community participation project initiated by the National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH), these women are actively involved in the…

In Chiapas, See Bonampak for its Mesmerizing Frescoes
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In Chiapas, See Bonampak for its Mesmerizing Frescoes

Home of the so-called Sistine Chapel of Mesoamerica, the ruins of Bonampak lay deep in the thick Lacandon jungle in Chiapas. The city was founded in the early 2nd century CE and had grown to be large by the time Yaxchilán invaded in the 5th century and installed Yajaw Chan Muwaan I as lord of…

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