I Was Wrong About Chetumal, Quintana Roo’s Underrated Capital
Let’s be honest. Chetumal doesn’t have the most exciting reputation. Many Mexicans barely remember it exists. This unassuming city is the capital of Quintana Roo, but overshadowed by flashier neighbors like Cancún and Playa del Carmen.
But here’s a secret: I have a soft spot for Chetumal. No, it’s not a dreamy honeymoon spot, but it’s got more charm than it gets credit for.
Why Chetumal?
Locals call it “Chetubar” thanks to its famously lax drinking laws, especially along the boardwalk where groups gather to share a caguama (a liter-sized beer). The city is also a gateway to Belize — just a short trip to the Corozal District — and was once a hotspot for tax-free shopping. (Though these days, the free-trade zone is mainly frequented by resellers stocking up on cheap clothes and shoes.)
So, why visit?
Location, location, location
Chetumal’s biggest draw is its proximity to other attractions. It’s just 30 minutes from Bacalar, the rapidly growing resort town on its stunning lagoon. It’s also the perfect jumping-off point for exploring Belize and beyond.
Most travelers moving between Mexico and Belize cross the land border at Chetumal, although it’s also possible to take a ferry from the pier, located on the boardwalk. These ferries make a lot of sense if you are looking to travel to San Pedro, but for islands further afield or cities like Belize City, Belmopan, or San Ignacio, taking the bus makes more sense.
But beyond being a convenient pit stop, Chetumal has its appeal.
The city’s long waterfront boardwalk is a hub for evening drinks, but it’s also great for jogging, strolling, and even spotting wildlife in the mangroves. Surprisingly clean and breezy, it’s dotted with monuments and tiny beaches where families gather when the tide is low. (Maybe don’t swallow the water.)
Oxtankah: A hidden Maya gem
Oxtankah is an impressive but often overlooked archaeological site on the outskirts of town. Once a thriving trade and religious center, this coastal city flourished between 300 BCE and 900 CE. Its strategic location made it a key player in Maya maritime trade, linked to cities like Kohunlich and Bacalar.
Today, visitors can explore ceremonial plazas, towering pyramids, and the striking Temple of the Masks, adorned with stucco faces believed to represent the sun god, Kinich Ahau. Some historians even speculate it had early contact with Spanish explorers, adding another layer to its story.
The city’s Museum of Maya Culture is certainly also worth a visit. More than a museum, it is a giant diorama that provides a worthwhile overview of the Maya world in Mexico and Central America.
The food scene
Chetumal isn’t known for a standout regional dish (unless you count battered hot dogs — approach with caution). But in recent years, a wave of new restaurants has upped the culinary game — many perch over the bay, offering great views alongside fresh seafood and vegan options. On the boardwalk, Amar serves excellent surf-and-turf, while ChetuYork delivers pub fare, craft beer, and live music in a laid-back setting.
It’s also interesting to note that because Quintana Roo became a state on October 8, 1974 (as did Baja California Sur, both of which were territories), Chetumal ties with La Paz for the title of Mexico’s youngest state capital. There is some trivia for you.
Chetumal isn’t about to become the next Cancún or even Bacalar, and that’s okay. It’s a city with quiet charm, a fascinating history, and a prime location for exploring the region. So next time you’re in southern Quintana Roo, give it a chance — you might be pleasantly surprised.
Senior Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a journalist, photographer and adventure leader. Born in Mérida, Carlos holds degrees from universities in Mexico, Canada, and Norway.
