Pomuch Residents To Tourists: Stay Away During Sacred Choo Ba’ak Ritual

Over the past decade, the unique Choo Ba’ak ritual in Pomuch, Campeche, has drawn growing crowds of tourists, leaving locals concerned that their profound cultural heritage is being turned into a spectacle.

What is the Choo Ba’ak Ritual?

During Choo Ba’ak, the bones of those deceased for at least three years are exhumed, carefully cleaned by family members, and placed on an altar for Hanal Pixán—the Yucatán Peninsula’s three-day observance of the Day of the Dead.

This ritual has ancient origins, with roots in Maya ceremonies that have, over time, incorporated Christian elements. After cleaning, the bones are arranged in special boxes, often decorated with embroidered cloths bearing the name of the deceased or their family.

The ceremony first gained national and international attention in the 1990s when media outlets often portrayed it as an exotic and creepy tradition from a remote town. While attitudes have shifted toward curiosity, Pandora’s box was opened.

Though it may sound macabre to outsiders, the ritual is a millennia-old practice of deep religious and spiritual significance for the people of Pomuch. A handful of other small communities also continue the practice, often in relative secrecy to avoid the pitfalls of over-tourism.

When Cultural Heritage Meets Tourism

The trickle of tourists swelled to busloads after the state of Campeche declared the ceremony part of its official cultural heritage in 2017.

Many in the community feel municipal authorities are complicit in “selling” their heritage. Last year, the town charged an entry fee of 30 pesos (roughly US$1.50) during Hanal Pixán, a fee rumored to be increasing dramatically this year.

“It is the government’s responsibility to protect our traditions, not make a quick buck from them,” said Pomuch resident Aurelio Sánchez Suárez. “Sometimes tourists push and shove to get close to the altars. I see this as a form of violence against our culture.”

The Government Response

The state government of Campeche and the municipality of Hecelchakán, including Pomuch, have issued statements urging respect for local traditions but have stopped proposing concrete solutions.

The commercialization is particularly difficult to accept because the tourist influx provides little financial benefit to the community. Most profits go to external tour operators.

While the 30-peso municipal fee is controversial, some suggest a much higher fee might deter visitors. There are also growing, though unverified, rumors of locals setting up “fake altars” to charge tourists for photos—a claim Yucatán Magazine has not confirmed.

Should You Visit Pomuch?

Pomuch is a charming town famous for its unique baked goods, such as Pan de Pomuch and Pichón, which are available at local bakeries and highway stops.

However, when it comes to witnessing the Choo Ba’ak ritual, the way to show respect is to honor the locals’ wishes and stay away. The Hanal Pixán season is a wondrous time across the Peninsula, with more than enough to experience. If you still feel compelled to visit, avoid organized tours and maintain the lowest possible profile.