Chunyaxché, the pride of the Petén Maya in the Caribbean
Nestled between the highway to Tulum, the Caribbean sea and Lake Muyil lay the ancient Mayan city of Chunyaxché.
In the Yucatec-Maya language, the name translates as “the trunk of the great ceiba.”
Chunyaxché is also commonly known as Muyil, and is even listed as so on several tourist maps and some road signs — perhaps because it is easier to pronounce and spell.
The entirety of the site lies within the biosphere Sian Ka’an, which roughly translates to “gate of heaven” or “a place where heaven begins.”
Despite its location within the municipality of Tulum and its proximity to many of Mexico’s most visited resort cities, Chunyaxché receives relatively few tourists.
When walking into the Chunyaxché, it is easy to forget how close you are to the hustle and bustle of the Mayan Riviera and just wander the jungle while you explore the ruins.
Archaeological evidence suggests Chunyaxché was founded sometime in the 3rd century BCE, likely as a vassal kingdom of a larger city-state further south such as Caracol or Tikal.
The reason for this hypothesis is the fact that despite its relatively northern location on the Yucatán Peninsula, Chunyaxché displays many hallmarks of Petén, which originated in northern Guatemala and Belize.
By the 5th Century CE, Chunyaxché had become an important center for trade and likely carried out diplomatic relations with major city-states in the Yucatán including Chichén Itzá and Cobá.
As during this time Tulum was still in its infancy, not reaching prominence until the 8th century, it is likely that Chunyaxché was the largest and most prestigious city on the Caribbean coast.
When entering the site, the first structure you are likely to be drawn to is Structure 81-13, known more commonly as El Castillo.
El Castillo’s relatively narrow base and wide staircase resemble a miniature versión of several temples found in Tikal.
Perhaps the most unique element of El Castillo’s architecture is a circular concave tower atop its roof.
Nicknamed the Pink Palace, Structure 8 at Chunyaxché is flanked by several smaller structures and was likely the civic hub of the ancient city.
When entering the Pink Palace you will notice the remains of eroded estelle, as well as doorways leading to several chambers within.
The area surrounding the Pink Palace is also full of smaller structures that likely served as residences for the city’s nobility.
Another of Chunyaxché’s most notable buildings is the recently restored Temple 5, though very little research has been published regarding this structure.
If you go
Given its location 20 miles south of Tulum, getting to Chunyaxché is quite easy. The roads are good, though construction along this route is frequent.
A few tour companies based in the Mayan Riviera offer day trips out to Chunyaxché, often as part of a package which also includes the archaeological site of Tulum.
The entrance fee to Chunyaxché is 45 pesos from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., Monday through Saturday. On Sunday, admittance is free for Mexican nationals and foreign residents of Mexico with ID.
Senior Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a Mexican expedition/Canadian photographer, adventure leader, and PhD candidate. Born in Mérida, Carlos holds multimedia, philosophy, and translation degrees from universities in Mexico, Canada and Norway.
