Cool Road Trips to Take in Mexico This Summer
June is here, and whether it’s a trip to Cape Cod or to the Adirondacks, we all know it is time for a summer road trip. Throughout the world, this month is the start of a rite-of-passage for vacations for everyone.
But we live in the Yucatán, our version of paradise. “Why leave?” we ask ourselves. With so many destinations to explore in our own backyard, from haciendas in ruin, to the many diverse pueblos, to finding that right secluded cenote, these are all within a day’s journey. They can all be easily reached from the Centro, with the help of Google Maps and good shock absorbers. You, too, can grasp your sense of adventure.
If you want to channel your inner Indiana Jones and escape the heat of the Yucatán, then you must head west, for one of Mexico’s many cool road trips in Chiapas.
The roads throughout Yucatán are well-maintained, easy to navigate and in my experience very safe. The ultimate road trip is to cross state lines, from Yucatán to Campeche, crossing a portion of Tabasco to one of my favorite destinations, Chiapas. There, the Maya site of Palenque sits deep in the jungle for all budding archeologists to explore.
Once you leave the colonial charm of Mérida, the highway reveals pleasant surprises along the way. The landscape of forgotten henequen fields void of any sense of topography is a great reminder why you decided to make the drive. You pass into Campeche, and there is no problem at the seldom manned checkpoint. The hills rise up, reminding us that the world is not flat. Heading westerly along highway 180, there will be glimpses of the beautiful blue gulf waters through the forested hills. You then will discover that green is the new brown. The vegetation has come to life.
The first stop on this seven-hour drive could be the quaint gulf side fishing village of Champotón. A perfect spot for a picnic and to stretch your legs, depending on traffic this could easily be your halfway mark.
Back on the road, large tractor trailers and the random pothole will now be your worst enemy. Construction was nearly completed on my last trip, making it smooth and easier to circumvent both obstacles mentioned.
Passing into Tabasco at Chablé, you cross over the Usumacinta River, reminding you how much you miss meandering rivers through the land. This waterway, wide and calm, flows from the dense rainforest to the gulf. It doesn’t take much to imagine it as a major trade route for the Maya centuries before. With another state comes another checkpoint. This one is for the quick ride through Tabasco. My advice is to crack the window, smile, and you will be on your way in seconds. There is nothing to worry about.
Shortly down the road, there is an unusual left-hand turn onto Route 199, where there are signs to Palenque, and a confusing merge of many lanes with lots of traffic, mostly trucks. This is the only entry point into Chiapas, so it gets crowded. Stay in the extreme right lanes for cars, and you will be guided through the checkpoint by friendly uniformed officials.
Climbing to new heights in Chiapas
Now that you have arrived in the state of Chiapas, you can take a deep breath—the driving part of your adventure is nearly over. The traffic will be less and the road will climb to new heights. The elevation of the city of Palenque is a mere 300 feet, and the Maya ruins, about twice that. Don’t forget, the Maya site of Palenque is the real reason why you made the drive. To those of us living at sea level these elevations can be a huge advantage for the cooler temperatures and the vistas of beautiful jungle, rich and diverse to cast your eyes on.
There have been many Indiana Jones types over the centuries. The first mention of this Mayan city to outsiders was in 1527 by a Spanish missionary. Since then, countless have explored and partially excavated the site. It was in 1952 when Alberto Ruz Lhuillier discovered the tomb of the last great king hidden in the bowels of the Temple of Inscriptions.
The entire site is shrouded with a sense of mystery and intrigue. Nestled in the rainforest in the Tumbala mountains, this Mayan site flourished for over 600 years. Home to Pacal the Great, he ruled this fascinating city for 68 years until his death at 80. His sarcophagus, which took years to unearth, caused a stir amongst the other archaeologists. The lid, with its intricate carvings, created myriad theories, from its origins to its meaning. Was Pacal an ancient astronaut as claimed in the best-selling book of the 1960s: Chariot of the Gods, or was he a boy king who grew into a man that created a city which stood the test of time?
Palenque today is a UNESCO World Heritage site, with over 1,400 documented buildings on a site of nearly 2,000 hectares. The site is perfectly positioned along the Otulum, a small tributary to the river you crossed earlier on your journey. The ingenuity of the Maya created a water system that channeled the water through the city with a series of canals, with a claim to fame that it was pressurized—the first of its kind in the world.
There are many standout structures that are not to be missed. The Temple of Inscriptions is without a doubt the most significant; built at the end of the 7th century as a burial site for Pacal, it also serves as a written record carved into its exterior. These inscriptions detail the city’s history for 180 years, from the 4th to the 12th century. Take a moment to bask in the glory of this building, and do your best to read the glyphs that have intrigued so many that came before you.
There are other notable buildings to explore during your visit. The Temple of the Cross is a step pyramid which is decorated with elaborate carvings that the early visitors used to name the structure. They misidentified a carving as cross-like, which after many interpretations, is now identified as the tree of creation from Maya mythology.
The Palace is another building on site that can be seen from every vantage point. Located in the very center of the city, it is a complex of structures that were devoted to the administration it governed. The observation tower is the most recognized element of the building, with a mansard-like roof, an engineering marvel for its time.
There are other structures to see. The Temple of the Skull, and of the Jaguar are just another twosome to explore. Your visit could last a few hours or a couple of days; the site is not as big as Tikal or even Chichen Itza, but equally intriguing. Take your time—let’s not forget the drive it took to get there.
The site is loved by all that visit it. The dense jungle that surrounds it gives it a sense of unidentified secrecy, and the sound of the distant howler monkeys can cause the hair on the back of your neck to stand at attention. When you have had enough, the more modern Palenque awaits you.
Like the ruins, the city is surrounded by dense rainforest; the air is humid and the sounds of exotic birds can still be heard over the snarling traffic that navigates the many traffic circles in the center of town. With a mixture of colonial-style buildings, open-air markets and shady plazas, it is the crossroads to many that live in this isolated state. A hub for tourists, the city offers a great assortment of hotels, some bed and breakfasts, and a few eco-friendly lodging on the outskirts. There is something for everyone and every budget.
Palenque has mastered the art of blending nature and culture in a city that hums along year-round. The population has swollen over the past decade to over 100,000, making this urban area an important destination for locals living in less populated mountain communities. Nevertheless, you only have to look to the hills for a sense of isolation and nature. The mountains and the rainforest are only outdone by the rivers and the majestic waterfalls that you can visit.
The blue waters are some of the most frequently visited waterfalls in the area. They are a short drive from the city proper on the road up the hills to another Mayan site, Toniná. Cascadas de Agua Azul is barely 60 kilometers away, but it can take about two hours. The drive is curvy, often backed up, and a scenic drive to higher elevations, making it worthwhile. Arrive as early as possible—during warmer months, it can be crowded. There is parking, a nominal fee, and plenty of places to eat and shop for local handicrafts. My suggestion is to wear your swimsuit and follow the paths and walkways along the Rio Xanil, find a quiet spot and dip into the majestic blue water.
Once you have been bitten by the waterfall bug, there are many more you can explore, some much closer to your hotel in town. Cascadas Misol-Ha is a towering force of nature as the mineral-rich water falls in a single drop of 35 meters into a perfectly round basin. Swimming and visiting the grotto behind the cascade are options after you have taken that selfie.
Falling for the falls
My favorite of all the falls are not the acclaimed Cascadas Roberto Barrios, but the secluded spot on the other side of the river. I always take the road less traveled when the opportunity presents itself. The falls of Valle de Bascan are often overlooked, but with a keen eye I found the right dirt road—it will deliver you to a charming jungle basic restaurant, where changing rooms, a cold beer and an isolated path through the dense jungle will bring you to the water’s edge. Alone with your thoughts, the rushing falls can create the ultimate white noise to clear any troubles you may have.
Do not be alarmed when the howler monkeys arrive, with their shrieks of terror. The sounds they make can be deafening and frightening. They are the original “bark is worse than their bite.” The howlers are not considered aggressive to humans—observe them from a distance, quietly and respectfully. The alarm they sounded was for something more threatening than me.
Whatever your reason for a road trip this summer, consider Palenque in the state of Chiapas as a possible destination. As always when driving Mexico, be mindful of the roads, the weather and the locals. Common sense and reduced speeds will get you there, and you’ll be forever grateful that you made the trek on the road less taken. Happy trails to you!
If you go
DRIVING: The directions are pretty straightforward. Google Maps is my go-to for road conditions, traffic and routing. Start your drive as early as possible, and never drive after dark. There are many gas stations along the way, as well as service stops. Be mindful of the speed and the potholes—not all have been filled in.
HOTEL: I always stay at Hotel Chablis in the tourist area. Plenty of parking, an onsite restaurant and a swimming pool. The rooms are clean, beds comfortable and staff well appointed. There are many choices to stay—I prefer to walk after a day’s driving or exploring in the evenings.
RUINS: Zona Arqueológica Palenque is located about 10 km from the center of the tourist area. Driving is the easiest way, with plenty of parking. The new arrival area is at the bottom of the hill, where tickets can be obtained and there is a bus to the entrance. Private cars are no longer allowed to the entrance. After your visit there is a walk through the jungle back to your car—don’t miss this opportunity to commune with nature.
GUIDE: As a guide myself in areas of the world, I am not a licensed INAH authority on their sites, so I always hire a guide. A good guide can offer better insight and add that extra touch to make your explorations more rewarding. I found a local expert on the site. Mildred offered a great tour, with many interesting tidbits, all in perfect English. Send a WhatsApp message to Mildred: +52 555-687-75259
WATERFALLS: This is definitely the place to go for beautiful waterfalls, quiet walks in the jungle, and to cool off in any number of mountain rivers. I recommend driving to these locations. There are lots of guides that offer this service—inquire at the hotel. Google Maps once again will be your best friend. They are all locatable with the help of a smartphone.
FOOD: I am not going to sugarcoat the food and the choices. There are many local eateries serving local food—if you are a fan of tamales, pozole or pork, you will not want for variety. Like all regional dishes in Mexico, they reflect the culture, combining the flavors with their history.
Hotel Chablis has an in-house restaurant, Kinich Kan Balam, which serves an early breakfast with many favorites. The chilaquiles I find are best served with a mixture of red and green salsa. Another one of my favorites was the guacamole toast vegan sandwich. +52 916-164-8223
Directly across from the hotel is an interesting spot for breakfast or dinner. La Tradicíon Palenque closes after the morning’s offering and opens again at 4:30. Try the yucca quesadilla, one of their specialties. Priced right and has many regional, and what I would call traditional items to choose from. www.latradicionpalenque.com +52 916-164-8223
Nestled on a hill overlooking the thick rainforest is one of my favorite places to eat, especially during a torrential rainstorm. Monte Verde Trattoria Pizzeria is a short drive from the hotel zone. This is perfect if you are craving carbs, fuel to replenish you after a day of jumping off waterfalls. The pizza is the best, and the handmade pastas are served in an unassuming dining room, reminiscent of a treehouse. Instagram: monteverde.restaurante +52 916-121-1413
Dave O. Dodge identifies himself as an Innkeeper, Traveler and Writer. A native of New England with a lifelong thirst to travel, he has been around the globe a couple of times. His writing has been featured in Food & Flourish, Frontdoors, Prime Living, Echo Magazine and INMexico. A true storyteller, his first biographical novel, The Seasons of Grace, is the unauthorized backstory of Peyton Place. His second, Betty: A Life Interrupted, is the untold story of Betty Hill’s extraterrestrial life. His current project is another historical novel set in his beloved New Hampshire during the 17th century. The Mist on the Merrimac is set for a 2026 release. Dave and his husband own and operate Ochenta y Dos [an urban bed & breakfast & spa] in Centro Merida. His years of tour guiding worldwide have brought him to #82Adventures, a private excursion company, specializing in the Yucatán. www.davododge.com www.meridabnb.com
