Copán, the great dynastic Macaw capital of the eastern Maya

Copán is an archaeological site in the west of Honduras, very near the Guatemalan border. It is also located on the southwestern frontier of Mesoamerica, and as such were in close contact with non-Mayan peoples. 

Copán is also one of Honduras’s most important tourist attractions and one of its few restored archaeological sites.

In antiquity the city was likely known as Oxwitik, meaning “three routes,” in the Mayan language. Copán’s history stretches back to the 9th century BCE, in a period known as the archaic. Little is known about the earliest centuries of Copán’s history, but some archaeologists have suggested that it had close ties with powerful cities in the Petén such as Mirador and Nakbe. However, others suggest that the fertile land Copán lay upon was first settled by non-Mayan peoples and then occupied by the Maya in the 4th century BCE.

It is not until the 4th century CE that the history of Copán truly comes into focus, with the establishment of its Yax Kuk Mo dynasty founded by Lord K’inich Yax K’uk’ Mo’. The Yax Kuk dynasty survived an astonishing 17 generations before it came to an end in the 9th century. 

By the 5th Century CE, Copán had become one of the most powerful cities in the region, boasting a surface of at least 250 square kilometers and a population of approximately 25,000. 

It is easy to understand why the Maya chose to build Copán where they did. The Copán valley is extremely fertile, only slightly mountainous, and rich with abundant natural resources such as high-quality lumber and the water which flows from the Copán River.

Copán archaeological park is made up of several architectural groups which include temples, palaces, and funerary complexes. Though this ancient city possesses several imposing structures, Copán is best known for the quality, beauty, and high degree of preservation of its several friezes, stelae, and sculptures. 

One of Copán’s most well-known attractions is a pyramid adorned with the longest continuous sequence of hieroglyphic writing in the entirety of the Mayan world. For obvious reasons it is known as the Temple of the great Hieroglyphic Stairway —  instead of its much drier name, Structure 10L-11.

This impressive stairway was commissioned by Lord K’ak’ Yipyaj Chan K’awiil who apparently destroyed a similar stairway that had existed at the same spot for centuries. Thus is the vanity of kings. 

Also located in the core of the site, is the largest Mesoamerican ballcourt in Copán known as the western ballcourt. 

Though its size is considerable, this particular ballcourt is famous for lacking the typical rings found on this type of temple. Instead, Copán’s western ballcourt sports two stunning carved stone macaw heads believed to serve as goal markers. 

Macaws can still be seen in Copán to this day, and along with the ancient ruins are one of Copán national park’s biggest tourist attractions. 

One of the most fascinating aspects of Copán’s architecture is the sheer variety of styles on display. It often feels that with a slight turn of your head you can be magically transported from Teotihuacan to a distant city in the Puuc region, or to the banks of the Usumacinta. 

Near the core of the site in the Main Plaza, you will find an oddly shaped structure known as the Turtle Altar. This altar depicts a two-headed turtle, with one of these heads being skeletal and the other fully alive. 

One of the most intriguing inscriptions found in Copán is Stela J. The side facing east away from the Great Plaza is carved in a mat pattern, a symbol of authority. It reads: “You are now entering the great square of the people, the holy place, where our lord and legitimate ruler, and the spirit of his dynasty’s founder will protect your passage, life, and prosperity. “The opposite side reads: “You are now leaving the Great Plaza and returning to the mortal world, ruled by the cycle of life and death.

At Copán it is also possible to observe several sculptures and reliefs of anthropomorphic animals — which is to say animals with human features. Two of the most famous of these are representations of divine monkey men and dancing jaguars. 

When one thinks of monumental stone heads in Mesoamerica, one’s attention justifiably goes straight to the massive stone heads of the Olmec Civilization. Though the two beautifully carved stone heads found in Copán are a great deal smaller than those of their Olmec counterparts, they are extremely interesting in their own right. Both these heads appear to represent an old man or Pauantun. 

Copán is also notable for its large number of tombs and royal burials found within large temple complexes. Several of these burial sites are notable for their high concentration of artifacts of Teotihuacan origin  — including headdresses, vessels, and clothing. 

One of these tombs belongs to a woman known as “the Red Lady,” the widow of Lord Yax K’uk’ Mo’ and mother to the next king, K’inich Popol Hol.

IF YOU GO

The archaeological site of Copán is located just outside of the small town, somewhat confusingly called Copán Ruinas. The town is charming and has several good options for accommodation as well as some surprisingly nice restaurants. 

Given the size of the ancient city of Copán, ruins and artifacts can be spotted fairly easily all over the contemporary city in residential backyards and in open fields. 

Daily tours to Copán also depart early in the morning from Antigua, Guatemala. Because reaching the site from Antigua takes about five hours, you really should consider spending at least one night in Copán Ruinas.

Entrance to Copán archaeological park is $USD 15, with an optional fee of an additional $USD 15 to gain entrance to the site’s catacombs. The fee for the Museum of Mayan Sculpture is another 7 bucks. The site is open every day of the week from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. I wholeheartedly recommend you get to the entrance just before 8 as adequately exploring the site will easily take all day.