The Ever-Powerful Hill of Cuahilama and its Stunning Petroglyphs
In the delegación (borough) of Xochimilco at the southern point of Mexico City, is Cuahilama, a steep and all too often overlooked hill that holds some of the greatest symbols of power in Mesoamerica.
Xochimilco is of course, first and foremost known for its colorful trajineras, flat-bottom boats that take visitors on tours of what little remains of the once great Lake Texcoco — more often than not to the thundering pulse of Mariachi music, tacos, and plenty of booze. But despite the fun to be had on the trajineras, the fact that Cuahilama is so overlooked is a tragedy, since its tiny trickle of visitors has disincentivized authorities from investing in securing this magnificent archaeological site.
Visiting the Site
The visit to Cuahilama begins with a steep set of stone-carved stairs that lead to the highlight of the site: a series of mesmerizing petroglyphs carved by the Xochimilca culture, which would eventually be folded into the Aztec Empire. Archaeologists argue that Cuahilama hill served as a ceremonial center, a place of pilgrimage, and a solar observatory, aligning with key dates in the agricultural and ritual calendar.
The petroglyphs found at the site back up this theory, as when taken together, they form a complex language of symbols connecting the human world to the divine, the earthly to the celestial. While some of the figures depicted in stone are fairly straightforward, at least aesthetically, others require more interpretation.
Animals of Power
Taking the easiest path, the first figure visitors are likely to encounter is an image of a jaguar, which across Mesoamerica was understood to have the ability to wander between the realms of the living and the dead, and was an ally to both men and gods. Of the petroglyphs, this is the most damaged and difficult to make out, but fortunately, signage is there to help.
The eagle was one of the most powerful symbols in Mexica and broader Mesoamerican cosmology. It represented the sun, warrior strength, and the daytime sky. As a celestial creature, it was a messenger to the gods. The eagle’s flight towards the sun mirrored the journey of the god of the sun and war, Huitzilopochtli, who required nourishment through sacrifice to continue his daily battle against the darkness.
Continuing up the hill, one is confronted with the image of Itzcuintli, a Xoloitzcuintle (hairless dog) which, like the jaguar, has a connection to the underworld and was tasked to lead the way for deceased spirits on their journey to Mictlán.
One of the most distinctive petroglyphs at the site is that of Papálotl, a fiery butterfly suckling from the Huacalxóchitl plant. Far from what butterflies are associated with in contemporary Western culture, this winged insect was understood as a symbol of fire, vitality, warfare, and perhaps paradoxically, childbirth.
The Baton of Power
A little further up, and requiring stepping over a precarious ledge, is the visage of an alligator or cipactli, which represents the first day of the Nahuatl solar calendar. Directly beside it is a representation of Xonecuilli, which symbolizes the baton of power granted by the authority of Quetzalcóatl. Taken together, these petroglyphs are taken to represent the legitimacy of the ruler in turn.
The Fifth Sun
Finally, and most famously, is the image of the Nahui-Ollin, which can also be found at the center of the Aztec Sun Stone and represents the fifth sun, which in Mexica cosmology is the same sun that shines on us today.
The importance of the Nahui-Ollin resides in the belief that the gods had created and then destroyed four previous worlds, or “suns,” each ending in a catastrophic event like floods and fires. The Fifth Sun, called “4-Movement,” was established at the ancient city of Teotihuacan when the god Nanahuatzin sacrificed himself by jumping into a great fire to become the new sun. This sun is characterized by constant, unstable motion, and its survival depends on a delicate balance maintained through human sacrifice and blood offerings, which provide the energy needed to keep the sun moving across the sky and prevent a final, eternal collapse.
Cuahilama’s Endangered Legacy
Today, Cuahilama faces threats from urban expansion, erosion, and neglect. Unlike more famous sites, it remains largely unprotected, its ancient messages fading under graffiti and the passage of time, though it is removed from time to time. Yet, Cuahilama stands as a profound testament to the rich intellectual and spiritual life of the cultures that flourished in the Valley of Mexico.
If you ever find yourself in Xochimilco, do yourself a favor and take a taxi or use a ridesharing app to get yourself to the site. It is worth it, as is Xochimilco itself, but we will have to leave more on that topic for another time.
Explore the wonders of Mexico with us
If you want to visit Cuahilama or any other site in Mesoamerica and learn more about its fascinating civilizations, book a trip with us. Contact me at carlosrosado@roofcatmedia.com
Senior Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht, PhD, is a journalist, photographer, and expedition leader. Born in Mérida, Carlos holds degrees from universities in Mexico, Canada, and Norway. Most recently, he earned a doctorate in Heritage Studies in 2026.
