The joys of curbside archaeology in Yucatán
Anyone with even the faintest interest in history or archaeology surely knows of Yucatán’s archaeological sites, such as Uxmal, Chichén Itzá, and maybe even some lesser-visited sites like Chacmultún, and Labná.
But aside from archaeological sites, and even entirely unrestored or vaguely documented remains of Prehispanic cities and towns in the bush — archaeology in Yucatán can be found in many unexpected places, even just on the side of the road.
As one cruises along the highway or even dirt roads, examples of ancient architecture can easily pass by without one even noticing. Like birding, one has to develop an eye for spotting these special places, but again, some are much more obvious than others.
While some of these sites have been restored, others just lay there, or were restored so long ago one can’t even tell they were ever intervened. So for those who have not yet developed their sixth sense for this sort of thing, here are a few interesting examples.
Before we get started I must note that just because these sites are not guarded this does not mean you could or should be taking carved stones or ceramic fragments with you. Remember this is a serious federal crime and could land you in federal prison — it goes without saying, but just don’t.
Zamnabalam
Known more colloquially as Las Piramides Puuc, Zamnabalam is on the side of the free road to Valladolid, just past the town of Xocchel. The ruins feature a couple of large pyramids as well as several other smaller structures, and an aguada overflowing with wildlife. If you are very lucky (and quiet) you may even see ocelots, thanks to the plentiful water and prey in the area.
Xtogil
A mile and a half south of Libre Union are the remains of Xtogil, likely named after the nearby cenote of the same name. This site is a gem for those looking to explore large unrestored Maya structures as their size and number are considerable. The site is on ejido land, so if anyone asks you what you’re up to just say you are looking for the cenote, which is worth a visit as well.
Yaxcopoil
On the road to Campeche, you will drive by the ruins of Yaxcopoil — not to be confused with the hacienda of the same name. A couple of well-restored structures can be spotted on either side of the highway. As interesting as these structures are, further into the bush there are several others, which are much larger, though access can be quite difficult. Within the hacienda itself there is a room exhibiting several artifacts including Estelle found in the region which are well worth a look.
Xiol
Within the municipality of Kanasín and surrounded by factories, the splendid Puuc site of Xiol sits majestically on the side of the road. The core of the observable archaeological site is made up of seven restored Puuc-style structures that date to the late classic period, which is to say from roughly 600 to 800 CE. Within the surrounding bush, another 30 structures have been found, though they remain untouched.
Caste War garrison and church
Within the town of Piste, right before arriving at Chichén Itzá, notice a pink chapel now turned into a museum dedicated to the legacy of the caste war. Behind the colonial structure itself are the remains of a Prehispanic structure later used as a garrison and armory by Mexican forces during the brutal caste war that began in the 19th century. The chapel itself is adorned with several stone carvings dating from Prehispanic times, making it one of several colonial structures of the colonial era displaying a high level of cultural and religious syncretism.
On the outskirts of Uxmal
Large archaeological sites like Uxmal often have several structures several miles away from the core of the city itself which are not contained within any park. Sites like Uxmal are a particularly notable exception. A few miles before arriving at Uxmal, slow down and notice the structures on the side of the road, especially those near the Uxmal Resort Maya. Though several structures will quickly become obvious, with a little exploring, even more will reveal themselves.
Aktun Usil
Driving north from Campeche to Maxacanú, it’s possible to notice several large, multi-room structures on the side of the road. The final and largest of these is right before a tournament, which will take you to the Aktun Usil caves, which are interesting for several reasons. For one, the caves are a treasure trove of ceramics and Prehispanic cave art, and they are beautiful in their own right. Outside the caves, you will notice several large mounds which are, in fact, pyramids. Very cool!
Casa Vieja
Just before reaching Akil due southwest, there is a side road which, after under a mile, will reveal a beautifully restored multi-chambered Puuc-style structure. Though there are no signs or infographics, judging by its architecture, it was likely part of an architectural complex built around the same time as Sayil or Labná. Though only one structure has been restored, a walk down the path behind it reveals several others, as well as the remains of an old hacienda.
Tipikal
This fascinating site can be found on the road from Maní that bypasses the town of the same name. Though only one structure has been restored, Tipikal is notable for its age and evidence that suggests it was built not by the Yucatec-Maya but rather by Maya peoples from the Petén region as part of their commercial network up the Peninsula, a situation similar to that of Poxilá. Assuming these two sites are contemporary, they would have been established sometime in the 8th century BCE.
There are way more “side of the road sites” that could be featured in a single article like this, so if you are interested in learning about even more let us know at: carlosrosado@roofcatmedia.com
Senior Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a Mexican expedition/Canadian photographer and adventure leader. Born in Mérida, Carlos holds multimedia, philosophy, and translation degrees from universities in Mexico, Canada and Norway.
