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El Caracol is not easy or cheap, but here’s why we’d go anyway

Ceremonial temples atop the Sky Palace or Caana pyramid in Caracol, Belize. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht

Covering roughly 200 square kilometers, Caracol is not only the largest archaeological site in Belize but also covers an area twice as large as Belize City. 

Conservative population estimates calculate that Caracol had a population of approximately 100,000  — which would also make it larger than Belize City in terms of population. Caracol is in Belize’s Cayo District, just a few kilometers from the Guatemalan border.

Some researchers have suggested that Caracol may have, in reality, supported a population as large as 200,000. But these claims should perhaps be taken with a grain of salt. Calculating population size based on construction density and the volume of discovered pottery fragments is far from an exact science.

The sizeable multi-purpose complex in Caracol was likely home to several of the city’s highest-ranking families. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Archaeologist A.H. Anderson first documented Caracol in 1937, but large-scale excavations did not begin until the 1950s. During excavations directed by Paul Healy of Trent University, the actual size and scope of Caracol began to come into focus. During the first decade of the 21st century, Caracol was surveyed using LiDAR technology, and the question of its immense size was finally settled. During this time, excavations began in the Northeast Acropolis and the Culebras residential complex.

Though much of Caracol has been restored, it is still possible to observe many large plazas and vegetation-covered structures. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

The ancient name by which Caracol was known in antiquity has been widely reported as Oxhuitzá. However, a closer examination of this word’s etymology does not make too much sense, as there is no good evidence the Itzá people ever occupied the ancient metropolis. The city’s contemporary name comes from the Spanish word for snail or shell but can also mean spiral — apparently in reference to the spiraling path that leads to the site. Most of what is known about Caracol comes from information extracted from the site’s many stelae.

Stelae in Caracol are extremely abundant and several can be found sitting below tents on-site where they are studied and protected from the elements. Photo Carlos Rosado van der Gracht

The foundation of the settlement, which would eventually become the great city of Caracol, dates back to the 7th century BCE. However, recent evidence suggests that Maya peoples may have inhabited the areas since roughly 1200 BCE. By the 2nd century CE, Caracol had become one of the largest centers in Mesoamerica and boasted extensive roads to connect it with its most important trading partners. 

The year 331 CE established Caracol’s longest dynasty, the Te’ K’ab Chaak, which lasted well into the 9th century. Records of 15 kings from this dynasty survive today, with 11 being identified by name. 

Te’ K’ab Chaak Lord is represented on a carved stone altar in Caracol. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht

In the 5th century CE, Caracol joined Calakmul in its first war against its former ally, the immensely powerful city of Tikal. However, despite coming out on top during the first couple of wars of this centuries-long conflict, Tikal would eventually emerge victorious and reemerge as the most influential player in the region. During this tremendous conflict, Caracol would also become embroiled in a prolonged proxy war against its sometimes ally, Naranjo. Lord Kan II eventually took Naranjo in 628 CE and captured its king, whom he is said to have personally sacrificed.

The last couple of centuries of the classical period were a time of great prosperity in Caracol and saw an immense boom in construction. But by the 9th century, Caracol and the entire region were in clear decline. The last recorded date in Caracol is 859 CE, found on Stele 10, making reference to the last of the Te’ K’ab Chaak lords.

Once a thriving city, Caracol is home base to a handful of archaeologists, caretakers, and the jungle’s diverse wildlife — including the magnificent Psarocolius Montezuma. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht

Aside from several large pyramids and monumental structures, Caracol also has an extremely high concentration of tightly packed residential complexes — hinting at the ancient city’s large population. 

The largest and most impressive structure found at Caracol is the great Sky Palace or Caana Pyramid. This impressive pyramidal complex sits on the north side of Caracol’s largest ceremonial center and rises above a massive base, reaching a height of 43.5 meters or 140 feet. Standing proud for over a millennia and a half, the Caana Pyramid is still to this day the tallest manmade structure in Belize, easily surpassing its nearest contemporary rival, the 94-foot Renaissance Tower in Belize City. 

The imposing Sky-Palace or Caana pyramid in Caracol, Belize. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht

At the top of the pyramid are three large temples set up in a triadic fashion, with the middle temple facing the plaza below.

View of the ceremonial center across from the Caana pyramid in Caracol, Belize. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht

This central temple, known as Structure 19, features a broad central stairway adorned with two shrines on either side.

Within the temple is a tomb, suspected to belong to a royal Lady, likely Queen Lady Batz’ Ek. During excavations archaeologists found large amounts of jade objects including earrings and other pieces of jewelry, as well as ceramic vessels. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht
Another large pyramid, Structure B5, faces Caana. Though the pyramid’s base has been restored to a great extent, its upper sections have not received the same treatment. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Flanking Structure B5’s wide staircase allows for observing three massive stucco decorative masks.

Ornate stucco masks on Caracol’s Structure B5 hint at the stunning beauty of Caracol’s temples at its height. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht

At the center of Caracol’s largest ballcourt is a marker displaying the likely date of its completion, December 10, 799 CE or 9.18.9.5.9. of the Maya long count calendar.

The site’s largest architectural complexes include the Northeast, Northwest and Southern Acropolis. Large burial sites, most complete with ritual objects, have been found within all three major areas.

View of structure in Caracol’s Southern Acropolis. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

The E complex consists of two large structures, A2 to the west and A6 running south. Structure A2 has three stairways leading to its summit.

Structure A2 and A6 are arranged in a way similar to that of structures in Uaxactún. This configuration allows viewers of the western temple to observe the sunrise over the central temple structure during the equinox. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

If you go

There is no way really around it: getting to Caracol is complicated. Even if you have a 4×4 vehicle, driving to the site is highly discouraged as the terrain is extremely tough. It crosses several creeks and even a few rivers of considerable size. The crossing is virtually impossible after heavy rains.

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There is no cellphone signal in the area, so if your vehicle were to stall, you would be in trouble. The surrounding jungle is gorgeous, but you don’t want to be stuck in it. 

River and waterfalls are en route to Caracol, Belize. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht

There are no settlements in the area other than the archaeologists and maintenance workers camp and a British military base, which is monitoring potential encroachments by Guatemala, with which Belize has a longstanding border dispute. 

Virtually everyone visiting Caracol begins their trip in the city of San Ignacio. A handful of tour companies offer to shuttle visitors back and forth to Caracol. These tours almost always run in caravans for safety. However, even if you have already paid for your trip in full, you may still be unable to leave on the scheduled date, as weather conditions often get in the way. Discuss the terms of reimbursements and such before buying your package. 

Quiet early morning scene in San Ignacio Belize. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

The total distance from San Ignacio to Caracol is about 90 kilometers, but this trip takes several hours. 

The archaeological site has bathrooms, but they were not exactly in tip-top shape during my visit. The entrance fee to the archaeological sites is $US7.50, which is quite a deal. But remember that your total expenses, including transportation, will likely come to around $US200. Still, easily worth the money.

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