From pre-history to the modern day, the ‘Aztec shield’ never ceases to amaze

The archaeological site of Chimalhuacán is surrounded by the city of the same name on the outskirts of México City, one of the largest and most densely megalopolises on Earth. 

Chimalhuacán’s main esplanade is seen with contemporary homes in the background. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

The name of this Náhuatl ceremonial center translates as the place of the shields, a fact which is reflected by the many stone-carved shields found at the site and its surroundings. 

A Prehispanic shield depicting the ancient glyph of Chimalhuacán is now on the facade of a nearby Catholic church. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Also known as Los Poches, Chimalhuacán also shows evidence of being inhabited by Chichimec and Mixtec peoples during the time of the famous triple alliance that kickstarted the Aztec empire. 

The great city of Tenochtitlan was the capital of the Aztecs, but a great many satellite cities existed all over Lake Texcoco, the heartland of the empire. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Archaeological evidence suggests that Chimalhuacán was first settled by Mesoamerican peoples in the 4th century BCE. Still, the vast majority of the architecture visible at the site today dates to the 11th century CE. 

A large artificial platform towers above Chimalhuacán, just as it has for nearly millennia. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

The settlement of Chimalhuacán is also known to have hosted the great Nezahualcóyotl, who hailed from Texcoco and became one of the greatest military figures in the history of the Aztec empire. 

Nezahualcóyotl (“hungry coyote” in Náhuatl) is still remembered today, not just as a warrior but also as a philosopher and poet. Illustration found in Chimalhuacán’s museum. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Though much of the archaeological site has been destroyed over the centuries to make way for modern construction, there are still plenty of interesting structures and objects to explore. 

The remains of what was likely a residential complex to the east of the site. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

On exhibit within the museum and inside the site are several objects discovered during excavations in the 1980s. 

A large stone sculpture, perhaps a stela, was found beneath the rubble of Chimahuacán. Photo: Carlos Rosaod van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Within the site’s largest temple, it is also possible to observe a handful of stone-carved figures. 

Stone sculpture of a snake inside a chamber of Chimalhuacán’s largest structure. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Though Chimalhuacán’s Mesoamerican ballcourt has not survived, one of its rings was recently discovered and set into the facade of the site’s museum.

A particularly intrinsically adorned Mesoamerican ballcourt marker/hoop was found at Chimalhuacán in Mexico State. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

One of the most photographed attractions at Chimalhuacán that represents a fire deity is actually a fiberglass mold replica based on a sculpture found elsewhere. 

Despite being a contemporary reproduction, this fiberglass icon holds deep meaning to those who perform ancient ceremonies at the site on holy days, such as solar equinoxes and solstices. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Like virtually all Mesoamerican cities and settlements, Chimalhuacán relied heavily on agriculture but also had the advantage of easy fishing in Lake Texcoco. 

Section of the Tecpan Codex depicting life in ancient Chimalhuacán. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Several decades ago, when large sections of Lake Texcoco were still navigable, folks from the region still used to fish its waters using canoes identical to those of their ancestors. 

A canoe last used in the 1950s was donated to Chimalhuacán’s museum. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazince 

But the story of the place today known as Chimalhuacán stretches way further back than even Mesoamerican civilization, as it is also the site of the discovery of the so-called Man of Chimalhuacán, who is thought to have lived 12,000 years ago. 

The discovery of the skull of the “Man of Chimalhuacán” in 1984 was extraordinary as it indicates how long the valley of Mexico has been inhabited. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Among the burial of the man of Chimalhuacán, researchers also found stone tools, as well as mammoth tusks covered with markings.

If you go 

Municipalities such as Chimalhuacán and Ciudad Nezahualcóyotl are reachable via public transit from Mexico City. However, if you decide to visit, it is strongly recommended that you take a taxi or use a ride-sharing app, as the area may present hazards to lost tourists. 

Map showing the location of Chimalhuacán on the outskirts of Mexico City. Map: Google Maps

The trip from downtown Mexico City to Chimalhuacán usually takes about one hour but can be much longer during rush hour. It is a good idea to go early on weekends to avoid traffic. 

Computerized reconstruction of Chimalhuacán’s main ceremonial complex. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

This region of México state is jampacked with other extremely interesting sites, such as Acozac, so making a list of sites to visit and trying to hit several during an extended day trip is a great idea. 

A decorative element in the form of a snake’s head likely adorned the facade of a temple in Chimalhuacán. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Carlos Rosado van der Gracht
Carlos Rosado van der Gracht
Born in Mérida, Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a Mexican/Canadian blogger, photographer and adventure expedition leader. He holds degrees in multimedia, philosophy, and translation from universities in Mexico, Canada and Norway.
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