A Guide to Hecelchakán’s Archaeology Museum and its Remarkable Artifacts
The Museo de Arqueología Maya del Camino Real de Hecelchakán, often referred to as the Museo del Camino Real, is home to an impressive number of Maya artifacts located in the town of Hecelchakán, Campeche.
Housed in an eighteenth-century colonial building on the town’s main plaza, the museum first opened to the public in 1965 but has since opened and closed its doors sporadically throughout its history. The site draws on northern Campeche archaeological sites, including Xcalumkín, Xcombek, Itzimté, and Xculoc. Yet the most substantial portion of its collection comes from the island of Jaina, a site of immense importance to Maya archaeology.
The inscriptions from Xcalumkín are the most numerous and range from 728 to 753 C.E. The stelae on which these inscriptions are rendered describe the succession of three pairs of governors who held the title of sajal. These sajales were subordinate lords, as opposed to the k’ul ahau, or sacred lord, who was the supreme ruler.
The texts and images depict these figures as warriors, tribute collectors, and sacrificers, and they also mention the sovereign of Kaan, a polity associated with Jaina, to whom the sajales appear to have been subject. Other titles recorded at the site include those of wise men, scribes, and priests, pointing to a complex and stratified society.
The museum courtyard also includes an exhibit of jambs (vertical side posts or linings of doorways) featuring figures, often in dance poses, with elaborate costumes, including large headdresses with snake imagery and symbols of the rain god Tlaloc, as well as belts centered with skull ornaments.
The dates are more difficult to decipher, but the prominence of Tlaloc and skull imagery suggests these carvings were created during the post-classic period, when central Mexican influence became more prevalent in the region.
Sculpted Column and Jamb on exhibit at Hecelchakán’s Archaeology Museum.Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Jaina figures are typically four to seven inches tall, but articulated figures are often much larger and also rarer.Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Aside from the exhibits in the museum’s interior, the courtyard is just as impressive.Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
A column, likely from Xcalumkín, made up of a glyph block, dates to April 29, 753 C.E. or 9.16.2.0.0 on the Maya Long Count Calendar.Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
From the moment you enter Hecelchakán’s Archaeology Museum, it’s clear you are in for a treat.Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Few Maya, even nobles, were entombed in stone sarcophagi. Rather, they were interred in ceramic vessels, as in this example from the island of Jaina.Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Entrance to the main indoor exhibit hall at Sculpted Column and Jamb on exhibit at Hecelchakán’s Archaeology Museum.Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Figures of women from Jaina, seemingly from all walks of life, are especially abundant, which speaks to the regard in which they were held.Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Jaina figures are plentiful, as the necropolis island of the same name was a major elite burial site throughout the classical period, extending well past the 8th century C.E.Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Jaina Figures
The museum’s collection of Jaina figurines is a primary attraction. Jaina, a small island off the coast of Campeche, functioned as an elite necropolis (burial ground) for the Maya during the Late Classic period. Unfortunately, Jaina is not open to the public, so viewing its artifacts at museums is about as close as most will ever get to it.
The Jaina figurines, crafted from ceramic and often discovered within tombs, are celebrated for their exceptional artistic quality and detail. They depict a wide cross-section of Maya society, including male and female figures of different ages, social standings, and activities, providing a valuable window into the daily life, clothing, and rituals of the ancient Maya.
The abundance and preservation of these pieces offer an intimate connection to the people who once inhabited the region, complementing the monumental stonework that dominates other parts of the museum.
Stelae and More
Beyond the Jaina figurines, the museum houses a large collection of monumental stone sculpture, in the form of stelae and architectural elements. Many of these carved stone objects were removed from sites such as Xcalumkín before they were officially designated and placed under INAH’s protection.
These pieces, which often depict prominent political and religious figures adorned with jewelry and elaborate headdresses, were originally coated in stucco and painted in vibrant colors. However, today they appear in their natural cream-and-whitish limestone hues. Some stelae also bear hieroglyphic inscriptions detailing the names, titles, and deeds of these elite individuals, as well as significant dates.
The history of these stelae, removed from their original settings, raises a point of debate regarding their current exhibition. With sites like Xcalumkín now accessible to the public and with established security measures in place, a valid argument can be made that the stelae and columns might be returned to their original locations to be viewed in their archaeological context, or, at a minimum, utilize high-quality replicas.
Viewing a stela within the architectural setting for which it was carved provides a sense of the spatial and ceremonial relationships that are lost when it is displayed in a museum courtyard. While the museum is a vital resource for the community and for visitors passing through Hecelchakán, the current museography detracts from the value of its collection.
Furthermore, the few information plaques present provide only general information about Maya society, offering little specific context, especially regarding the museum’s monumental stone carvings. There is a notable absence of detailed references to ceramic typologies or textual analysis. This leaves visitors without the necessary clues to understand the connections between the artifacts, where they came from, their context, or meaning.
It would certainly be nice if the museum at Hecelchakán at least had a guidebook for sale. Alas, perhaps this is a task we will have to take on ourselves!
If you go
Entrance to the museum is 80 pesos and is free on Sundays for Mexican citizens and permanent residents. The museum also makes for a great stop on the way to and from the great many archaeological sites in the area, most notably, for reasons that should be obvious, Xcalumkín.
If you would like to join us and visit the museum at Hecelchakán, Xcalumkín, and other fascinating sites in the area, feel free to email us at carlos.rosado@gmail.com
Senior Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht, PhD, is a journalist, photographer, and expedition leader. Born in Mérida, Carlos holds degrees from universities in Mexico, Canada, and Norway. Most recently, he earned a doctorate in Heritage Studies in 2026.
