The Art of the Teotihuacán’s Mesmerizing Hidden Palaces
The ruins of the ancient city of Teotihuacán are among the largest and most impressive in the world. But like at most major sites, visitors limit themselves to checking out the highlights or sprinting for that iconic selfie.
If you are reading this, chances are you are already well aware of the Pyramid of the Sun, the Pyramid of the Moon, La Calzada de los Muertos, and the Temple of Quetzalcoatl — so how about something a little further afield?
Well outside of the main archaeological zone of Teotihuacán, one can visit the homes and private oratories of the elite, priestly, and merchant classes of this marvelous city, founded in the 3rd century BCE.
The Quetzalpapálot
Given its location in the core of the city, the Quetzalpapálot (Quetzal for butterfly) complex, to the right of the Pyramid of the Moon, was the most elite of residential areas in all of Teotihuacan. More than any other complex of its kind, the Quetzalpapálot has been restored to an impressive degree and is maintained constantly. Walking into its main chambers, it is hard not to marvel at its intricate architecture, its use of negative space and ornate columns, as well as murals. But as we have covered the Quetzalpapálot in the past, and it is by far the best-known elite residence of its kind, we won’t dwell too much on it, though not mentioning it would be an artistic sin of omission.
The now subteranean facade of Teotihuacan’s temple of flowers. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán MagaineTemple in Teotihuacan
Remains of murals can be seen among several of Teotihuacán’s elite residential areas. Photos: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazinehidden murals of Teotihuacán
It is likely that within the Quetzalpapálot´s shallow reflective pool, mercury was added, as this element was considered sacred to Mesoamerican peoples. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán MagazineThe Quetzalpapálot in Teotihuacán
The Palace of Tepantitla
Roughly a 15-minute drive from Teotihuacan’s parking lot is the Palace of Tepantitla, famous for its frescoes and large courtyards. Like the Quetzalpapálot, the palace complex at Temantitla also features a shallow reflective pools, which would have been covered in smooth, gleaming white stucco and filled with crystalline water, likely as an homage to the rain god Tlaloc, but also to enhance the beauty of the sacred space.
Tlaloc, or more his Teotihuacán predecessor, can be seen represented several times, often surrounded by a court of priests in full regalia and sporting offerings to this grand deity. One of the best preserved Tlaloc murals at Tepantitla is known as the red Tlalocs (there being two), where the god is shown with sharp feline teeth and obsidian knives, as well as his insignia blinkers, often referred to as googles. This mural, in particular, is different from most of its type as it depicts Tlaloc not as his usual benevolent self, but as chief of war, perhaps fully embracing his role as the god of thunder and lightning.
The palace of Tepantitla is best known for its representations of the Great Goddess of Teotihuacán. In 1942, archaeologist Alfonso Caso identified the Great Goddess as an equivalent of Tlaloc. However, this mysterious deity is now more closely associated with fertility and is considered a predecessor to the later Aztec goddess Xochiquetzal, with whom she shares elaborate headdresses; even for the standard of Mesoamerican deities.
Of the images of this goddess, the most famous is the Mural of Steam over which she precides featuring a gigantic spring within which human figures can be seen swimming and engaging in all sorts of activities, such as fighting, playing the Mesoamerican Ballgame, and even performing oral surgery, all under the gaze of the figure referred to as the Great Goddess of Teotihuacán. With no primary sources to explain the meaning of this great mural, combined with the fact that it has so much going on, its purpose or meaning is hard to pin down, though it does spark one’s imagination. As impressive as this massive artwork appears in photographs, seeing it in person is an entirely different experience.
The Mural of Steam is among the most enigmatic artworks in Mesoamerica. Even within this small fragment, one can notice a wide array of activities taking place, including the ritual ballgame.Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
A rain deity, believed to be a precursor to Tlaloc, in his thunder/war god modality.Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
The fisherman of Tepantitla exhibits features that many scholars associate with the Maya.Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Warrior priest in a procession adoring the “great mother” of Teotihuacán.Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
The front-facing eagle mural in Tetitla has features that some interpret as actually being an owl, given its similarities to similar Zapotec depictions. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
The Great Goddess of Teotihuacán remains a figure shrouded in mystery, but it is clear that he cult was central to life in the great city.Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Mural of a speaking jaguar with a headress in Tetitla’s Palace of Teotihuacán.Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
An altar emulating the tablero-talud architecture of Teotihuacán.Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
The Palace of Tetitla
The famous Eagle Mural is found on the walls of a portico, room, and corridor. The eagles depicted are symmetrically positioned, with their wings outstretched, their heads facing forward, and their talons sideways. Just like in later Mexica society, in Teotihuacán, the eagle was closely associated with urban elites, their plumage abundant in ceremonial regalia.
The image known as the Fishermen or Divers consists of only a fragment of a scene in which a man can be seen holding a shell in one hand and a net to carry it in the other. The image is notable for its simulation of movement through water ripples. Researchers note that the surviving section of the mural shows a clear influence of Mayan art, despite Teotihuacán’s distance from the Maya region.
Looking for even more?
If you want to delve even deeper into Teotihuacán’s muralism, another fantastic place to visit is the Museo de Murales Teotihuacanos Beatriz de la Fuente. The museum contains originals and replicas of many of the murals of Teotihuacán, including some that have been moved from their original location to protect them from the elements. The museum also houses other artworks, including ceramics, architectural elements, and sculpture.
Explore the wonders of Mexico with us
If you want to experience Teotihuacán beyond just the typical couple-hour tour, or any other site in Mesoamerica for that matter, book a trip with us. Contact me at carlosrosado@roofcatmedia.com.
Senior Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht, PhD, is a journalist, photographer, and expedition leader. Born in Mérida, Carlos holds degrees from universities in Mexico, Canada, and Norway. Most recently, he earned a doctorate in Heritage Studies in 2026.
