ORIGINAL: Gathering of Indigenous Artisans Takes a Stand Against Knockoffs

Mérida welcomes Latin America’s largest folk art event this week, ORIGINAL: Mexican Textile Art Gathering, which makes its first-ever appearance outside Mexico City. The four-day festival, running Oct. 16-19 at Siglo XXI Convention Center and the Gran Museo del Mundo Maya, brings together more than 350 Indigenous artisans from across Mexico for a cultural movement to combat plagiarism of indigenous designs.

ORIGINAL was founded by the national Ministry of Culture in 2021 to protect traditional designs and symbols of Mexican artisans from unauthorized commercial use. The initiative comes after years of high-profile controversies where international fashion houses copied indigenous patterns without credit or compensation to the communities that created them.

Culture Minister Alejandra Frausto has publicly denounced what she calls “modern-day pirates” who appropriate indigenous motifs, saying “plagiarism is not a tribute” and “theft is not the fruit of inspiration.” In 2022, Mexico passed a law requiring written consent from indigenous communities before their cultural heritage can be used commercially.

The festival showcases work from artisans representing Mexico’s diverse textile traditions, from Oaxacan huipiles to Chiapas weavings. Unlike a typical craft fair, ORIGINAL facilitates direct dialogue between artisans and designers, encouraging ethical collaborations rather than uncredited copying.

Patricia Martín Briceño, head of Yucatán’s Secretariat of Culture and the Arts, emphasized the significance of hosting the event. This marks the first time ORIGINAL has traveled beyond the capital, bringing national attention to Yucatán’s own rich textile traditions.

The program includes far more than sales booths. Visitors can attend workshops for children and seniors, film screenings focused on indigenous peoples in the Mayamax Room, and discussion forums addressing cultural appropriation and artisan rights. A Filigree Gathering brings together specialists in this delicate metalwork technique.

Musical performances add to the celebration. Groups like Tribu, which fuses jazz with pre-Hispanic instruments, and Las Mujeres Cardencheras, known for their desert vocal traditions, will perform alongside Son Rompe Pera’s blend of son and ska. Local ensemble Yukalpetén Typical Orchestra closes the festival at 8 p.m. Sunday with a grand concert.

Four themed fashion shows take place nightly at 7 p.m. in the Great Museum’s Permanent Hall, featuring live music and designs representing different Mexican regions. The presentations journey from desert landscapes to jungle settings, spanning the country from north to the Yucatán Peninsula.

Salvador Vitelli Macías, director of the Yucatecan Institute of Entrepreneurs, called ORIGINAL the most important folk art event in Latin America. He noted its dual benefit to artisans and the general public, who can purchase unique pieces representing Mexico’s intangible cultural heritage.

The festival coincides with two local exhibitions at the Convention Center celebrating Yucatecan craftsmanship. “Kili’ich Chuuyo’ob | Bordado Maya Ritual” explores the sacred traditions of Maya embroidery, while “Memoria Viva de Yucatán” displays winning works from the State Contest of Popular Art and Addy Rosa Cuaik Embroidery competition.

The fashion industry’s use of indigenous designs has sparked international controversy in recent years, with brands including Isabel Marant, Zara, Ralph Lauren, and Louis Vuitton facing accusations of cultural appropriation. Indigenous artisans often accept drastically reduced prices for their work or see their designs reproduced without any compensation, with studies showing losses up to 30%.

ORIGINAL aims to shift this dynamic by raising awareness of authentic artisan work and encouraging consumers to purchase directly from creators. The movement positions handmade pieces as luxury items deserving of premium prices that reflect the hours of skilled labor invested in each creation.

Clemente Escalante Alcocer, director of the Cultural Trust, highlighted the festival’s film programming, which includes appearances by guest directors. Dario Flota Ocampo, State Secretary of Tourism Development, celebrated Yucatán’s selection as the first state outside the capital to host the gathering.

All ORIGINAL activities are free and open to the public. The festival operates daily from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. through Sunday.

If You Go

• Dates: Oct. 16-19, 2025
• Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. daily
• Location: Siglo XXI Convention Center (Ek Balam Hall) and Great Museum of the Mayan World
• Admission: Free
• Nightly fashion shows: 7 p.m. at Great Museum Permanent Hall
• Closing concert: 8 p.m. Sunday, Oct. 19
• Details: Check Secretaría de la Cultura y las Artes social media for full schedule