Itzamkanac, the Great Capital of the Chontal Maya 

Itzamkanac, also known as El Tigre, was once the great capital of the Maya Acalán-Tixchel region. Today, four of Itzamkanac’s main plazas have been restored and are open to the public, but are seldom visited by tourists.

The history of Itzamkanac dates back to the 6th Century B.C.E. and extends all the way to the era immediately following the conquest of the Yucatán Peninsula. The importance of Itzamkanac and the Acalán-Tixchel province inhabited by the Maya group known as the Chontal was such that it was visited by Hernán Cortés and chosen as the spot where he would execute Cuauhtémoc, the last independent Tlatoani (Emperor) of the Aztec on February 28, 1525.

Because Itzamkanac’s political and commercial zenith came after the peak of this Classic-period rivalry, the search results do not place the city as an active participant during the “Star Wars” fought between Tikal, Calakmul, and its proxies. By the time Itzamkanac rose to prominence as the capital of Acalan, the political landscape of the Maya region had already shifted significantly. That said, it’s not like the city was a backwater during this time, so its geographic location off by the tributaries of the Usumacinta River, instead of “in the middle of the action,” may have contributed to its staying out of the conflict and not experiencing the collapse experienced by so many of its contemporaries. 

Given its extremely long history and place in the narrative of the conquest of Mexico, one would think Itzamkanac would be recognizable to everyone in the country, but it is not. Because of its geography and considerable distance from any major city, this great Maya capital has eluded the attention of all but the most committed explorers, as getting there has historically been complicated to say the least. Or at least it used to be, more on that later. 

The Archaeological Site of Itzamkanac

As is typical in Mesoamerica, only a relatively small section of Itzamkanac has undergone archaeological restoration, but that does not mean the section open to the public to explore is small. 

The core of the site consists of five large plazas, each with its own massive step pyramid, as well as 13 altars and a Mesoamerican ballcourt. Itzamkanac’s architecture is consistent with the Petén style characteristic of the region and of other cities to the east and south, such as Calakmul and Tikal. 

However, because of its development over 2,500+ years, architectural elements, including influences from central Mexico and further north in the Yucatán Peninsula, are also easy to identify. The most obvious of these include structures built in the Tablero-Talud style, from Teotihuacán, but in a configuration extremely similar to that of Oxkintok in Yucatán, and an apparent emphasis on iconography representing the solar deity K’inich Ajaw.

It’s also important to keep in mind that Petén-style architecture is not a monolith; there is a great deal of variation. In the case of Itzamkanac, the site resembles Calakmul much more than it does Tikal, at least in its construction phase during the Classic period. 

Temples to Ehécatl in the Yucatán Peninsula?

One of the most striking features of Itzamkanac is two circular structures, which at least superficially bear some similarity to Mexica Temples dedicated to Ehécatl (the wind deity), found most commonly in central Mexico but also as far north as Durango.

Despite some similarities, it would be an exaggeration to call these circular structures a temple to Ehécatl. That said, that does not mean there is no connection at all. Itzamkanac’s research director, Archaeologist Ernesto Vargas Pacheco, suggests these circular structures are associated with the god Kukulcán, the Feathered Serpent, specifically his manifestation as the wind god Ehécatl. This theory is supported by the fact that these structures appear to date to the Early Postclassic period, just like most early examples of temples to Ehécatl. The identification is further supported by historical documents like the Papeles de Paxbolón Maldonado, which describe Itzamkanac as having a major structure with four temples, one of which was dedicated to Kukulcán.

Itzamkanac’s Stucco Masks

A handful of Maya cities, like Acanceh and Lamanai, are well known for their enormous stucco masks depicting Maya gods and nobles. Here, once again, Itzamkanac stands out as it is home to 5 impressive examples of these masks, similar in size to those found in Kohunlich. However, unlike Kohunlich, the masks at Itzamkanac are not found concentrated in a single temple, but are instead spread out across large structures at the site.

While some of these masks have been exquisitely restored, others remain extremely damaged, but still have notable features that can be observed. One example is Mask 3, which features images of captives and serpentine figures, along with what appears to be a representation of a ruler wearing the regalia of the sky god Izamná.

Yet other examples have survived the passage of time much better (with the help of art restorers) and are the best examples of these masks in Meosamerica. Here, its best to let the images do the talking.  

The Acalán-Tixchel Region

As noted earlier, Itzamkanac was the capital of the Acalán-Tixchel, which by the postclassic period was dominated by a Maya ethnic group known as the Chontal. Other important centers in the region include El Chillar, El Destino, Las Esmeralda, El Tambor, and Cerro de los Muertos—though these sites are extremely hard to get to, often requiring navigating along small river tributaries, and have not undergone archaeological salvage. 

Nevertheless, it’s easy to see why people would settle in the region, as fresh water flowing from rivers full of fish dominates the landscape, and the surrounding soil is nutrient-rich. 

Getting to Itzamkanac

As mentioned earlier, Itzamkanac has historically been quite difficult to get to. But thanks to the Tren Maya at the town of Candelaria, roughly 45 minutes from the site, getting to this great Maya city has never been easier.

Despite being extremely charming, Candelaria has no real tourism infrastructure, with few hotels, so booking in advance is recommended. There are also no tourism agencies based out of the town, so the best way to get to Itzamkanac is to hire a private taxi.

Care to join us on a trip?

If you’re interested in visiting Itzamkanac (or any other sites in the region), send us an email, and we will be happy to put together a tour. While visiting Itzamkanac is well worth an excursion on its own merit, several underexplored sites also await in the jungle! For more information, email: carlos.rosado@gmail.com