El Naranjo, Guatemala — Exploring the Amazing Realm of Lady Six Sky
The ancient Maya city of El Naranjo, or Wak Kab’nal as it is known in Mayan, holds a special place in the imagination of those passionate about Mesoamerican history, art, and architecture and the legacy of its most famous ruler, Lady Six Sky. Another reason for its allure is that, despite its status as one of the significant Maya sites of the Classic period, it is difficult to get to and seldom visited.
Located in Guatemala’s Peten basin, El Naranjo is only 10 km (8 miles) from Xunantunich across the border in Belize, one of the region’s most visited archaeological sites. For example, El Naranjo is three to four hours away from the island of Flores, which serves as a home base for most archaeological trips in the Peten. Roads are non-existent for most of the trip. Instead, to get to El Naranjo, the only option is a modified 4×4 with a driver who knows how to handle this terrain, which is the best-case scenario.
During the rainy season, not even these sorts of trucks brave the trip, and 4×4 motorbikes must be employed. So if you don’t want to end up a muddy mess, it’s best to visit during the dry season. This is not a place you want to venture off to on your own, mainly because if something goes wrong, you will find yourself far away from any cellphone towers. Just getting there is an adventure in itself, but one that should be taken with caution.
One of the upsides of this kind of seclusion is that the way to El Naranjo offers plenty of opportunities to spot wildlife, especially birds, including Tucans and Oropendolas. Once one arrives at the site’s entrance, one must register at a military installation and continue for another kilometer before arriving at the core of the ancient city.
Rediscovery and excavations
El Naranjo first captured the attention of explorers in the early 20th century, when pioneers like Teobert Maler and Sylvanus Morley documented its weathered stelae and crumbling temples.
Researchers, including the University of Calgary’s Ian Graham, who recorded inscriptions in the 1970s-80s, conducted early efforts to excavate the site. However, it wasn’t until the 1990s and 2000s that systematic excavations, led by the Proyecto Arqueológico Naranjo-Sa’aal and Guatemalan archaeologist Vilma Fialko, began revealing the city’s ancient status as a power player.
Archaeologists uncovered hieroglyphic stairways boasting military triumphs, royal tombs laden with jade, and intricately carved monuments that brought the city’s history back to life. Among the most striking finds were records of the city’s most famous ruler, Lady Six Sky, who reshaped its destiny.
Forged by conflict
First settled in 500 BCE, El Naranjo rose to prominence in the Late Classic period (600–900 CE). The city was deeply entangled in the power struggles between the two great Maya superpowers: the Kaanul Dynasty of Calakmul and their rivals in Tikal. Initially a vassal of Calakmul, El Naranjo became a key military outpost, launching campaigns against neighboring cities like Yaxhá and Caracol. However, by the early 7th century, the city had suffered devastating defeats, leaving its royal lineage in chaos — until a powerful noblewoman stormed onto the scene to reclaim its glory.
Lady Six Sky: The Warrior Queen
In 682 CE, a mysterious noblewoman named Lady Six Sky (Ix Wak Chan Ajaw) arrived in El Naranjo from the city of Dos Pilas, a stronghold of the Kaanul Dynasty. Though it’s disputed if she ever ruled as a queen, she at the very least ruled as regent for her young son, K’ahk’ Tiliw Chan Chaak, and orchestrated one of the most remarkable resurgences in Maya history.
Under her leadership, El Naranjo embarked on a series of military campaigns, avenging past defeats and reestablishing regional dominance. Monuments depict her overseeing rituals, receiving captives, and securing alliances. Her reign reached its zenith when her son took the throne in 693 CE, continuing her legacy of conquest.
A legacy in stone
El Naranjo’s sculptors immortalized Lady Six Sky’s deeds. Stelae 24 and 29 show her regal splendor, while hieroglyphic texts detail her strategic victories. Stelae 24 and 29 were in the United States for many years at New York City’s Metropolitan Museum of Art, and in Switzerland, but they have since been returned to Guatemala. They can be seen in the capital’s museum of Archaeology and Ethnography. Though many excavations have already been done at El Naranjo, work continues as huge mounds await extensive interventions before they reveal their secrets.
Despite Lady Six Sky’s triumphs, the city eventually declined, falling into obscurity like many Maya centers. El Naranjo remains a compelling window into a time when queens wielded armies, and a single determined ruler could rewrite a city’s fate.
Senior Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a Mexican expedition/Canadian photographer, adventure leader, and PhD candidate. Born in Mérida, Carlos holds multimedia, philosophy, and translation degrees from universities in Mexico, Canada and Norway.
