At Maxcanu, Doña Bellita Cooks up a Longaniza to Rival any Spanish Chef

In Yucatán, there is no shortage of opportunities for great meals. However, as the secret of the state’s cuisine has gained an international reputation, prices have surged, and traditional methods have been compromised by cutting corners to cater to visitors’ preferences.

Fortunately, there are still exceptions. Inside the grounds of an unassuming property on the outskirts of Maxcanu, Doña Edna Bellita May prepares longaniza the way her grandmother taught her.

Doña Bellita, as she prefers to be called, tells us that she has made a life for herself and her family by cooking and describes her longaniza as the best in Maxcanu. Still, frankly, that is likely an understatement. 

She says that shortly after she began selling her longaniza, folks from all over Mexico started taking notice and placing orders.

“People would come, taste the longaniza, and then after a few weeks, we would get orders for places like Monterrey and Guadalajara. Some of the clients said that my longaniza paired especially well with certain wines, and things continued from there.” 

In its original Spanish form, longaniza is cured and air-dried, so it has a firm texture and can be eaten without cooking. The seasoning often includes warm spices such as anise, cinnamon, nutmeg, and paprika, which give it a slightly sweet, aromatic flavor.

In Yucatán, longaniza has evolved into something quite different. The Yucatecan version is smoked. What really sets it apart is achiote (annatto seeds), which gives the sausage a vivid red color and an earthy, slightly peppery taste. It’s also often mixed with sour orange juice and garlic, creating a bright, tangy flavor that you’d never find in Spanish longaniza.

As for the longaniza prepared by Doña Bellita, it is much thicker and juicier than the famous “longaniza oriental” of Valladolid and has a much smokier flavor, the result of smoking it over charcoal, which Doña Bellita also makes herself with the help of her husband. 

While it is possible to buy longaniza from Doña Bellita, going to her ranch to enjoy breakfast is really worth the trip.

The seating area at Doña Bellita’s is rustic but comfortable, as are the grounds. A great place to visit, especially with kids who love looking at the turtles, running around and swinging on the ranch’s trees. 

The specialty of the house is huevos con longaniza (longaniza and eggs) served with habanero salsa and homemade tortillas. While you are waiting for the main course, Doña Bellita brings out fresh fruit and chayitas, which are crispy on the outside but nice and soft on the inside, covered in tomato sauce.

The chayitas and fruit go especially well with the fresh juices and coffee on offer, which is important, as despite being a relatively simple recipe, the huevos con longaniza take at least 20 minutes to be ready because everything is prepared fresh. 

To avoid missing out on full-on chayitas, one may explore Doña Bellita’s grounds, which are full of animals and the remains of carved stones that were once part of Maya temples.

“Before I purchased the property, there were several ancient structures here, but the previous owners sold the carved stones and artifacts here. It is a shame, but something that is all too common in these parts,” says Doña Bellita.

The property, called Rancho Villahermosa, is home to several small ponds filled with fish and turtles, as well as chickens, turkeys, dogs, and white-tailed deer, who can be spotted in the area drinking from the ponds early in the morning before scurrying deeper into the vegetation.

Once the huevos con longaniza come out of the kitchen, the smell of the rich ingredients fills the air, and it is time to chow down with gusto!

Part of what makes the experience so special is that, like the loganiza, everything at Doña Bellita’s feels authentic. The homemade furniture, the free-roaming animals, the gentle breeze, and did I mention she does all of this without electricity? 

After the meal, if she is not too busy, Doña Bellita will offer to take you on a tour and demonstrate “how the sauge is made,” which in this case is actually something you do want to see.

Prominently displayed within her home are photographs of Doña Bellita’s children, many of them with university diplomas, at which she beams with pride.

“Back when I was little, girls did not go to school and were expected to stay home and take care of the family. Some traditions are meant to be broken,” she tells me.

Breakfast at Doña Bellita’s at Rancho Villahermosa is available only by reservation. Don’t fight the urge to buy some extra longaniza to take home.

If you go

• Location: Rancho Villahermosa, Maxcanú, Yucatán
• Distance from Mérida: about 62 km (39 miles) via Federal Highway 180, roughly a 1-hour drive south
• Open: Monday through Friday, 8 a.m. to noon
• Payment: cash, cards and bank transfers
• Reservations: required; 993-235-0594 or 999-439-7893
• Instagram @longanizasbellita