New trails and better views of Xlapak’s amazing architecture

Xlapak has long been considered the “lesser” of all the Maya Puuc sites open to the public. Much of this has to do with the fact that for a long time, only a single restored structure was accessible to visitors.

But thanks to recent improvements to the site’s infrastructure, new trails have been carved through the jungle, allowing visitors to better appreciate this ancient agricultural outpost.

The ancient temples in Xlapak (which in Yucatec Maya translates as old house) may not be as large as those in nearby sites like Uxmal or Kabah, but they are beautiful nonetheless. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

When entering the site and following the path, the first structure you encounter is a three single-floor abode decorated with intrinsically carved rain god masks above the middle entrance and on the corners.

Known simply as Structure 1, this wonderful example of ancient architecture is often regarded as the epitome of classical Puuc architecture. Though Chaac rain god masks follow similar patterns from site to site, they all have subtle, unique variations—with Xlapak’s featuring particularly sharp teeth.

To observe the differences between rain god mask variations, pay attention to features like the teeth, orientation of the nose, shape, and design of the carved earrings and headdresses. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Moving deeper into the archaeological site, you will notice ruins of structures that have yet to be restored. While some of these ruins may be candidates for reconstruction, others are so badly damaged (or pillaged) that bringing them back to something resembling their former glory is impossible.

When moving towards Group 2, keen observers will notice the ruins of collapsed walls and foundations and a back view of a single-standing structure that archaeologists have recently been working on.

The back of the main structure in Group 2 lacks most of its decorative elements, save a section restored by archaeologists to give visitors a sense of what it would have once looked like. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Walking around the structure, the facade of the restored temple becomes visible. It features pronounced cornices and barrel-shaped adornments, for which Puuc architecture is well known.

Like most elite or ceremonial Maya architecture, the temple in Xlapak’s Group 2 is not built at ground level but atop an elevated artificial platform to avoid flooding and convey its status. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Continuing through the site, visitors are graced with the birdcalls of several species and a glimpse of the region’s thick and beautiful jungle, much denser than even a dozen miles north.

Around a bend lay Group 3, which is dominated by a large artificial platform atop which several structures once rested.

The base of the platform of Xlapak’s Group 3 is badly damaged, but one can still get a sense of how magnificent it must have been. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Atop the platform lay a single surviving chamber, doubtless part of a larger complex lost to time and pillagers. Despite its relatively small size, the ruins of this temple inspire a sense of defiance and resilience— if you are the sort of person inspired by such a thing—something which yours truly unabashedly is.

A lone section of an ancient Puuc temple stands proud among ruble, just as it has for hundreds of years. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Given its location almost exactly halfway between Labná and Sayil, it is likely that Xlapak served as an agricultural outpost governed from as far away as Kabah. But this does not mean it was not important, after all, what is more important to a civilization than food?