The Great Maya City of Ichkabal Rises Once Again
Until recently, the ancient city of Ichkabal remained hidden under thick vegetation in the lush jungles of southern Quintana Roo, Mexico. Now an archaeological site open to the public, Ichkabal has received plenty of attention in the national media, with countless headlines hailing it the “new Chichén Itzá.”
Part of the fascination with Ichkabal is the size of its temples, which are larger than Chichén Itzá’s famous Temple of Kukulkán, though this is a distinction held by dozens of pyramids in the Maya world. Then there is also the fact that the government of Mexico has invested heavily in Ichkabal in hopes that its proximity to the ever-growing resort of Bacalar turns into a major money maker. One thing Ichkabal has going for it, which Chichén Itzá does not, is permission to climb its largest temples, at least for now; so don’t miss out.
Enjoy the journey and take it slow
But all cynicism aside (and I do apologize; it’s just my nature), Ichkabal is remarkable, and thanks to the brand new 45 km (28 miles) road connecting it to Bacalar, getting there is half the fun. This two-lane road delves deep into the jungle. It offers travelers the opportunity to spot plenty of wildlife, including toucans, red-tailed foxes, and, if you are fortunate, even wild felines like ocelots and jaguars.
If cycling is your thing, the road also has a dedicated bicycle path, which is, at least for the time being, in really good condition and seems like a great way to experience the jungle of southern Quintana Roo. The top speed on this road is 50 km per hour (just over 30 miles per hour), which makes sense given the amount of wildlife in the area, a handful of sharp twists and turns, and the presence of the bicycle lane.
Once at the site itself, well-maintained paths circle the partially restored core, but there is no access to several others.
History, dynasty, and war
Ichkabal’s monumental architecture suggests it was a major political and ceremonial center. Archaeologists believe it was occupied as early as the Preclassic period (1000 BCE–250 CE), with its peak influence occurring during the Classic era. Given this information, Peten-style architecture and proximity to Dzicanché, many scholars and enthusiasts alike (yours included) believe Ichkabal was likely part of the famous Kaan’ul dynasty, often abbreviated to Kaan.
This is important because it would imply that Ichkabal shared significant political ties with Calakmul. It would have been an important outpost during the “Star Wars” fought against the Kingdom of Tikal. But more on that fascinating centuries-long conflict will have to wait another day.
The city’s layout features prominent pyramidal temples, expansive plazas, and elite residential complexes, indicating its importance as a regional capital. Unlike some Maya cities abandoned by the end of the Classic period, Ichkabal shows signs of continuous occupation into the Postclassic (900–1500 C.E.). However, its power likely waned as city-states in the region, including Kohunlich, rose to prominence.
The Great Pyramid
Dominating the central precinct is Ichkabal’s great pyramid. This massive stepped structure likely served as both religious and political functions, as there was little to no distinction between the two in Maya society. Rising high above the surrounding jungle, this pyramid follows the classic Maya talud-tablero design, with sloping walls (talud) interspersed with vertical panels (tablero).
Its summit would have held a ceremonial shrine, possibly dedicated to a patron deity or deified ruler. Like many Maya pyramids, this structure underwent multiple construction phases, with successive rulers adding layers to amplify its height and prestige. Its last phase shows evidence of influence from the cultures of central Mexico.
The Acropolis
Adjacent to the Great Pyramid lies a large elevated complex, the Acropolis, a multi-level platform housing elite residences and administrative buildings. This structure, common in major Maya cities, served as the nerve center of Ichkabal’s governance, where rulers and high-ranking officials conducted state affairs. The vaulted chambers and spacious courtyards indicate that it was also a residential zone for the city’s nobility.
One notable feature of the Acropolis is its sophisticated drainage system, which includes carefully constructed channels to manage rainwater. Additionally, some rooms contain remnants of benches and niches, possibly used for private rituals or receiving dignitaries. The strategic placement of the Acropolis, overlooking the main plaza, underscores its role in both controlling and symbolizing the city’s authority.
Structure 2 and beyond
Though Structure 2 has only been restored to a limited degree (less than 5%), one does not need to be an archaeologist to appreciate how large and magnificent it must have been in its day. Rough measurements by yours truly put the length of its main platform at around 200 square meters (2000 ft). For reference, this would make it even bigger than the Acropolis at Ek Balam.
Other notable monuments at the site include structures E-7, E-10, E-11, and E-12. These smaller structures are restored to a much more complete degree than others and share similar configurations. There are also a handful of huge mounds that have yet to be investigated by archaeologists. I was somewhat surprised not to spot a Mesoamerican ballcourt, but it likely lay among the rubble of these yet-to-be-restored structures.
Ichkabal is more than worth a visit, especially if you find yourself in the Bacalar/Chetumal region, and with how easy and pleasant the drive is, there is little excuse not to. The Ichkabal ruins feature excellent facilities, including a free potable water station, bathrooms, and ample parking. The only sour point of my visit was that when approaching the ticket booth, I was told I would have to leave my “good camera” as the guards said only cell phones were permitted. This was especially annoying as, upon entering the site, I saw a flock of toucanettes that seemed to be mocking me as I sighed, longing for my telephoto lens.
If you want to visit Ichkabal or any of the many amazing archaeological sites on the Yucatán Peninsula, contact info@roofcatmedia.com to learn about our tours.
Senior Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a Mexican expedition/Canadian photographer, adventure leader, and PhD candidate. Born in Mérida, Carlos holds multimedia, philosophy, and translation degrees from universities in Mexico, Canada and Norway.
