New Palacio Cantón exhibit features extraordinary Maya artifacts

Maya religion and cosmology have been the subject of hundreds of investigations over the past century, but there is still much that remains a mystery. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Right on Paseo de Montejo sits Palacio Cantón, one of Mérida’s most iconic mansions. The grand casona, built during the Porfirian period in the first decade of the 20th century, served as the residence of the two-time governor, General Francisco Cantón Rosado.

Palacio Cantón during its final construction phases in 1907. Photo: Fototeca de Yucatán

After the Mexican Revolution, Palacio Cantón became an art school, a children’s shelter, and a library before taking on the role of Mérida’s regional anthropology museum. Given its location, it’s one of Mérida’s most visited museums. And it remains relevant despite the construction of the much larger Museo del Mundo Maya in the north of the city. 

Aerial view of Palacio Cantón on Paseo de Montejo with Mérida’s hotel zone in the background. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Aside from its own collection consisting of over 1,000 artifacts, the museum also often hosts temporary exhibits with themes ranging from the role of women in the Mexican Revolution to excavations at archaeological sites such as Kulubá.

Palacio Cantón recently opened a temporary exhibit centered around the theme of the material and spiritual conquest of Yucatán.

Marvelously preserved ceramic vessels depict the Maya rain god Chaac. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

The exhibit, on the second floor, displays astounding artifacts from the Maya classic and postclassic periods, as well as a smaller collection of Catholic artifacts found in Maní from the times of the early conquest.

A medieval depiction of the Virgin Mary was housed in Maní’s 16th-century convent, one of the oldest in the region. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

The exhibit also makes a point of highlighting the religious syncretism from the 15th century onwards with references to the ways in which Europeans attempted to draw parallels between local deities and Catholic figures — most famously between the rain god Chaac and Archangel Michael. 

Documents on display also depict the destruction of Maya artifacts and documents by the Europeans, as well as the conversion of the Xiu dynasty to Catholicism. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

The exhibit is particularly notable for bringing to Mérida some of the Maya world’s most iconic artworks, which are usually housed in Mexico City

A famous depiction of the moon and fertility goddess Ixhcel in the company of a rabbit has on several occasions graced the cover of publications like Arqueología Mexicana. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

When visiting the exhibit, it’s hard not to be impressed by the beauty and state of preservation of the artifacts, many of which still have a great deal of their original paint and are relatively intact.

A striking depiction of the creator deity Itzamná mounted atop Ah Bacab, the personification of one of the four cardinal points. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Despite media reports that the artifacts were discovered during the construction of the Mayan Train, the reality is that these specific finds all come from prior excavations at sites that include Mayapán, Chichén Itzá, and Ek-Balam

A multi-colored polychrome vessel depicts the rain god Chaac, complete with jewelry and the deity’s characteristic nose. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Among the collection are also several images depicting old men of noble rank, recognizable from their regalia.

In some Maya city-states (during certain periods), such as Chichén Itzá, there exists good evidence to believe that state affairs were handled by a council of elders. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Several of the artifacts featured in the exhibition dating from the post-classic period show evidence of influence from other peoples, including the Nahua.

A depiction of a Nahua Eagle warrior with what appear to be Maya features. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Artifacts such as jewelry, carved shells, incense burners, and ceramic pottery are also featured, making the exhibit feel particularly well-rounded.

A ceramic incense burner is in the form of a young Mayan woman. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

If you go

Map showing the location of the Palacio Cantón on Paseo de Montejo. Map: Google Maps

Though this temporary exhibit opened only a couple of weeks ago, it would be best to check it out sooner rather than later. Palacio Cantón is closed Mondays.

Mérida’s Palacio Cantón is a must-visit for anyone coming to Mérida with an interest in history. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Entrance to the museum, on the corner of Calle 43, is 65 pesos and, on Sundays, is free for Mexican students with valid ID, seniors with an INAPAM card, and residents of Mexico. 

Effigy of an elderly Maya lord, complete with a headdress and chestplate. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Carlos Rosado van der Gracht
Carlos Rosado van der Gracht
Born in Mérida, Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a Mexican/Canadian blogger, photographer and adventure expedition leader. He holds degrees in multimedia, philosophy, and translation from universities in Mexico, Canada and Norway.
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