Nojpetén, Tayasal, and the Fall of the Last Great Maya City

 

The Maya Nojpetén was located on an island in Lake Petén Itzá in northern Guatemala, as well as on its northern banks, while Tayasal sits across from its northern banks on the mainland. That same island, Nojpetén, is now occupied by the modern town of Flores, the capital of the Petén department. 

Nojpetén holds a special place in Mesoamerican history as one of the last Maya polities to remain independent of Spanish control, falling in 1697—more than 170 years after the conquest of the Mexica capital at Tenochtitlan.

Given the island’s small size, it is widely believed that the core of the city before contact with the Spanish sat on the northern banks across from the island. But as sieges became more frequent, most of the population moved to the island to more easily protect themselves from invaders.

Foundation and Political Structure

The section of the city usually referred to as Nojpetén (meaning “Great Island” in the Itzá Maya language) seems to have first been settled around 1450 C.E., but there is evidence to believe that Tayasal, the section of the city on the banks of the lake, dates to a much earlier period, roughly the year 900 C.E. The founders of Nojpetén city were migrants from the Yucatán Peninsula, specifically from the city of Chichén Itzá and later Leaue of Mayapán in 1441. 

On the other hand, the people who had been living on the mainland for hundreds of years by the time Nojpetén was likely also migrants of sorts, escaping the conflicts typical of the 900’s onwards, which marks the beginning of what is referred to as the Classic Maya Collapse. However, when it comes to Nojpetén itself, it is also often argued that they were not really migrants, but rather the descendants of the Itzá who originally journeyed north to the Yucatán and then returned to Lake Petén Itzá—their ancestral homeland. 

The island measured roughly 350 meters by 200 meters. This small, defensible space allowed a population of approximately 2,000 to 2,500 people at the time of Spanish contact. The city contained around 200 houses, 21 temples, and a central pyramid or castillo with nine stepped tiers.

Rulers of Nojpetén used the dynastic title Kan Ek’. Surviving records mention several holders of this title, including Kan Ek’, who received Hernán Cortés in 1525, and the last Kan Ek’, who was captured in 1697. The Itzá political system was a hereditary monarchy, but the king ruled with input from a council of lineage heads, reflecting the city’s organization into four quarters based on clan divisions.

Caption: Much of Tayasal is still covered by black tarps to protect stucco from the elements, but if you are lucky and ask politely, one of the archaeologists may allow a peek. Don’t just go ahead and lift the tarps yourself.

Even in its current state, with a little imagination, one can start to imagine the grandeur of Nojpetén/Tayasal, but it’s only natural to want to see it restored to a semblance of its former glory.

A particularly eroded stelae in Flores dating from 869 C.E. depicts a member of the Kan Ek’ dynasty, which would later inspire the Maya Rebel Jacinto Kanek in Yucatán. 

A staircase created by archaeologists leads to the top of one of the tallest artificial platforms at Tayasal. Perhaps one day the entire site will be restored to a semblance of its former glory.  

A contemporary statue of the lame horse left at Nojpetén was later destroyed by missionaries. 

A canoe resembling those used during antiquity likely dates to the early or mid-20th century on the banks of Lake Petén Itzá.

The network of ramps used at Tayasal to explore much of the site is different from anything else at any other Mesoamerican archaeological site.

The area around the Petén Itzá is lush and full of wildlife, so if you have one, don’t forget to bring your good camera. 

Ceramic figures such as this jaguar have been found all over Lake Petén Itzá and are a testament to the cities that developed along its fertile shores.

The Arrival of the Spanish (1525–1697)

Hernán Cortés Expedition (1525): While marching from Mexico to Honduras, Cortés passed through the Petén. He sent an envoy to Nojpetén and was received peacefully by Kan Ek’. Cortés left behind a lame horse, which the Itzá kept after the Spaniards departed. When the horse died, the Itzá created a stone statue of it. By the early 1600s, this statue had been incorporated into local ritual as a deity named Tzimin Chac (“Thunder Horse”).

Franciscan Missions (1618–1619): Two Franciscan friars, Juan de Orbita and Bartolomé de Fuensalida, traveled from Yucatán to Tayasal. They were initially received by Kan Ek, but generated hostility after Orbita smashed the Tzimin Chac statue. The friars narrowly escaped with their lives. A second mission in 1619 was expelled after the Itzá attacked the friars during a ceremony. Following that incident, the Itzá closed the city to further Spanish entry for nearly 80 years.

Tayasal survived for several reasons. First, the Petén jungle was difficult for Spanish military expeditions to cross. Second, the Itzá controlled all canoe traffic on Lake Petén Itzá, limiting Spanish access to the island. Third, the Itzá maintained a policy of controlled neutrality, permitting occasional trade or missionary visits but refusing permanent Spanish settlement or religious conversion.

The Fall of Nojpetén (1696–1697)

In 1695, Spanish authorities in Yucatán began a coordinated campaign to subdue the remaining independent Maya zones. Governor Martín de Ursúa y Arizmendi directed the operation. He ordered the construction of a road from Campeche to Lake Petén Itzá, as well as the transport of a large attack boat (a galeota) to the lake shore.

In December 1696, Ursúa’s forces assembled on the western edge of the lake. On March 13, 1697, the Spanish launched their assault. The galleon, armed with cannons, sailed toward the island. Itzá warriors paddled out in over 300 canoes but were unable to overcome Spanish firepower. Spanish soldiers landed on the island, set fire to the temples, and captured Kan Ek’ within a few hours.

The last independent Maya king was taken to Mérida, where he later died in captivity (reports vary between execution and disease). Ursúa renamed the island Nuestra Señora de los Remedios y San Pablo and built a Catholic church over the ruins of the main temple.

Nojpetén Today

Aside from a handful of artifacts across from the island’s Church, little evidence of the ancient city survives. However, across its banks on the mainland, the ruins of the older Tayasal remain and are currently being restored by archaeologists. 

While none of the ruins of Tayasal have been fully restored at this time, one can still make out several large walls, stairways, and even the remains of stucco masks and other adornments. Several artifacts, including incense burners, Maya excentrics, and ceramics, have been found at the site, many of which, as is the case with the excentrics, clearly did not originate in the Petén, as they are made of obsidian, a material found further south in Guatemala’s highlands. The question of Nojpetén’s relationship with nearby cities like Ixlú and Motul, and with large power centers like Tikal and El Naranjo, remains elusive, but ongoing research could change all of that. 

Getting to Tayasal is easy from Flores, as it’s just a short water taxi ride and a short hike away. The Guatemalan government has also set up a series of wooden ramps to walk around the site, which is great because it helps preserve the site, makes access easier and offers great birding opportunities.