The Power and Beauty of Oxkintok far beyond Its Core
The ancient Mayan city of Oxkintok is usually overshadowed by Uxmal when it comes to visitors’ attention to the Puuc region. There is no denying the splendor of Uxmal, but Okintok is no slouch, and its size and influence over its region beginning in the 4th century C.E. are imposing.
The first thing to consider is that the national park and archaeological site we call Oxkintok make up only the core of this ancient city, with large structures belonging to the city extending well outside the site itself for miles. For example, the case of Aktún Usil, a large-scale ceremonial center and cave system featuring structures comparable to those of Oxkintok and petroglyphs tying it to its mother city.
But evidence of Oxkintok’s influence, both artistically and politically, can also be found throughout the region at sites like Hacienda Granada and what yours truly considers the most astounding example of Maya religious syncretism, the Catholic Church at Paraiso, which blends Maya stelae with 19th-century colonial architecture.
However, the influence of Oxkintok continues up to and beyond the state line with Yucatán’s neighboring state of Campeche. Though most rushing by on the highway never notice, a fascinating archaeological site full of impressive structures, including elite residential residences, chultunes, and artificial platforms, sits there waiting to be explored.
Fascinating Oxkintok
This fascinating site, excavated by archaeologist Eunice Uc González and her team in 2012, is believed to date between the 2nd and 5th centuries C.E. Along with the seven restored structures, Uc González’s team uncovered approximately 180 ceramic vessels and over 100 burial sites.
The restored structures (save the one between the highway lanes) are all on the right side of the road. Many other structures also exist on the left side, though accessing them is difficult. Estimates regarding the number of ancient structures in this region are as high as 170, though their restoration will likely continue at a piecemeal pace.
Though this archaeological complex does not have a formal name, it is sometimes referred to as the “large stone.” The restored structures fit the architectural patterns of Oxkintok, which blend the Puuc style with influences from central Mexico.
Aside from the larger structures, one of the most notable features of Chactun (Yes, I am just running with this name) is its large number of chultunes (artificial water storage wells) and silos for the storage of staples like corn. While it’s true that features like this are not rare, their number and remarkable state of conservation point to Chactun being more than just an agricultural vassal of Oxkintok but perhaps a full-blown city in and of itself (though still under the dominion of its mother city), though this is admittedly conjecture.
So, next time you drive on the Mérida—Campeche highway, keep your eyes open for this remarkable site and maybe stop to take it all in. Keep in mind that not everything is visible just from the highway.
Senior Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a Mexican expedition/Canadian photographer, adventure leader, and PhD candidate. Born in Mérida, Carlos holds multimedia, philosophy, and translation degrees from universities in Mexico, Canada and Norway.
