Known by many names and for various roles, Plaza Grande is ever-changing

After its radical renovation over the last few months and ahead of the Independence Day celebrations, all eyes are on the Plaza Grande in Mérida. 

This historic square has been a Maya shrine, a site for pledging allegiance to Spanish kings, where colonial gallows stood, and the epicenter of citizen protests and festive celebrations. 

Its long-standing significance is evident in the many names it has held over time: Plaza de Armas, Plaza Mayor, and Plaza de la Constitución. Today, it is most commonly known as Plaza Grande or Plaza Principal, though its official name, Plaza de la Independencia, is displayed on a plaque in the Municipal Palace.

Once a dirt-filled area in both Prehispanic and colonial times, its paths have been tiled, paved with red French cobblestones, and even black asphalt. In 2024, red bricks further modernized the park. Modes of transportation that have passed through its streets have also evolved—from horses and carriages to trams, buses, and now cars, motorcycles, and bicycles.

The First Spanish Encounter with T’hó

In 1541, 20 Spanish men and their captain arrived on foot at the future Plaza Grande. These were the first Europeans to set eyes on the Maya city of T’hó (also known as Ychcanzihó), which they were sent to explore by Francisco de Montejo the Younger, who had camped in nearby Cibical (modern-day Dzibikak, Umán). Montejo planned to settle in T’hó after preparing for the conquest of two Maya chiefdoms that had resisted submission.

When the Spaniards reached T’hó, they were greeted by a city populated by humble farmers living in wooden and straw huts. Yet they were struck by the massive hills dotting the city, especially the one that stood where the Plaza Grande now lies. On top of these hills were ruins of ancient Mayan shrines, remnants of a once-magnificent civilization. Though the shrines had long since fallen into disuse, the Spaniards were impressed by their scale and grandeur, reminding them of the Roman ruins in Spain.

T’hó Becomes Mérida

After the initial exploration, Montejo’s scouts reported that T’hó was easy to conquer due to its lack of warriors. Soon after, the Spanish army marched to T’hó, establishing their camp on Bakluumchan Hill — now the Plaza Grande. The Maya called this hill the “serpent that surrounds the earth.” It offered a vantage point for the Spaniards, who feared a counterattack from the Maya warriors.

In January 1542, the Spaniards formally founded Mérida on the site of T’hó, naming it after the city in Spain. They chose to build the new Spanish colony here because of its pleasant climate, fertile lands, and proximity to other affluent Maya towns. Bakluumchan Hill was leveled, and its stones were used to construct the buildings surrounding the Plaza Mayor, now known as Plaza Grande. The Plaza de los Poetas, the upper part of the Municipal Palace courtyard, is all that remains of the hill.

The main square became the center of the colonial capital, home to essential buildings such as the town hall, granary, slaughterhouse, and prison.

A Place of Allegiance and Rebellion

Throughout its history, the Plaza Grande has witnessed both pledges of loyalty and acts of defiance. On Dec. 26, 1557, Mérida’s residents gathered to swear allegiance to King Philip II of Spain, with a grand ceremony that included a procession to the Cathedral and a public oath-taking in the Plaza Mayor. Similar ceremonies followed in later years, including one in 1599 to honor Philip III.

However, the Plaza Grande also saw darker moments. On December 14, 1761, it became the site of the brutal execution of Jacinto Canek, a Maya leader who led a rebellion against Spanish rule. His torturous death was meant to serve as an example to the indigenous population, and his body was burned, with his ashes scattered outside the city.

The Plaza’s Role in Popular Protests and Festivals

In more recent times, the Plaza Grande has been a stage for political and social movements. During the Mexican Revolution, workers and citizens gathered here to protest against the establishment. One notable event took place on Nov. 24, 1915, when a crowd, incited by anti-clerical sentiment, stormed the Cathedral, destroying religious artifacts and burning Catholic icons.

In the 21st century, the Plaza Grande again changed with the times. Colorful letters spelling out the city’s were erected for visitors taking selfies. Modern-style benches and new pavers were added and landscaping was aggressively altered, going along with street modernizations that encouraged pedestrian traffic. It’s a place for rock festivals, along with folkloric dance demonstrations. And, of course, it’s still a place for demonstrations both patriotic and rebellious.

Despite its turbulent past, the Plaza Grande remains the center of community life in Mérida. It continues to host celebrations such as the annual Grito de Independencia, parades, and festivals marking the anniversary of Mérida’s founding. Its role as the heart of Mérida is undeniable.