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Thanksgiving entertaining advice from Jeremiah Tower

Jeremiah Tower at home in Mérida in 2014. The chef has bought and restored several homes here. Photo: Associated Press

Thanksgiving is just way too formal, says Jeremiah Tower, Yucatán’s most famous expat.

The famed American chef surprised Food & Wine magazine with that remark.

Anyone who has seen the documentary “The Last Magnificent” knows that a young Jeremiah Tower spent his childhood whose indifferent parents allowed him to feast alone on aspic, baba au rhum and croquembouche.

After Harvard, Tower went on to become the father of California cuisine, first as a chef at Chez Panisse, and later at his own San Francisco hot spot, Stars.

The chef himself at work in “Jeremiah Tower: The Last Magnificent.” Photo: Courtesy

“I think the occasion is wonderful,” he tells Food & Wine while on the phone from his home in Mérida, adding, “It’s way too much work, and then the people who did all the work have been around food for so long they don’t want to eat. And the ones who haven’t eaten way too much and then lie around the living room groaning. I mean, what kind of party is that?”

If you’re not lining up at a buffet on Thursday, Nov. 23, perhaps you’re hosting a crowd at home. For you, here’s his advice for tweaking the holiday:

Make the dinner longer yet more casual. And plan for walking breaks.

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