The allure and mystery of the ancient Zapotec city of Dainzú

Carlos Rosado van der Gracht
Carlos Rosado van der Gracht
Born in Mérida, Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a Mexican/Canadian blogger, photographer and adventure expedition leader. He holds degrees in multimedia, philosophy, and translation from universities in Mexico, Canada and Norway.
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The ancient Zapotec city of Dainzú (sometimes spelled Dannizhú) is remarkable for many reasons, including its antiquity and the beauty of its petroglyphs. 

Located in the mountains surrounding Oaxaca de Juarés, aside from archaeology, Dainzú offers some truly spectacular vistas. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Established in the 7th century BCE, Dainzú was, along with San José del Mogote, already going strong for centuries by the time of the founding of Monte Albán

Though Dainzú roughly translates as “mount of cacti,” its original name has been lost for nearly two millennia, partly because the city was mysteriously abandoned sometime in the 3rd century CE. 

A network of labyrinthian causeways dominates much of Dainzú, leading to patios and tombs. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

The influence of this early Zapotec city can be seen across the entire region, especially when it comes to its many petroglyphs and funerary catacombs.

A particularly ancient Catacomb in Dainzú, dating to somewhere between the 7th and 5th centuries BCE. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Catacombs at Dainzú date from roughly the city’s founding to the 2nd century — by which time they exhibit features similar to those found in Monte Albán. 

Tomb 7 in Dainzú features the image of a jaguar at its entrance, a common motif in Monte Albán and later Zapotec strongholds. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Funerary practices and styles in the Zapotec heartland would continue to evolve until the 16th century with the arrival of other peoples, including the Nahua, to the region. 

A wide shot of Zaachila’s Tomb 1 shows, right-to-left, stucco reliefs of an owl, and flayed figure and a human figure in a horizontal position adorned by a turtle shell. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Aside from its tombs, Dainzú is famous for its Temple A, built upon three terraces built into a hill. 

The Temple A complex has several surrounding structures, all leading up the same hill, though most are close to visitors. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

During archeological excavations atop the upper terrace, researchers discovered four rooms with slightly slanted walls covered in large carved stones. 

The “relief gallery” is the only of these chambers open to the public but is chock-full of fascinating petroglyphs. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

The gallery depicts carved stone bas-reliefs similar in style to the danzantes (dancer) bas-reliefs found in Monte Albán. 

Dainzú’s main ballcourt located just across Temple A. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Given the location of Dainzú’s ballcourt directly across from Temple A, combined with its abundant imagery referring to this ceremony, there is good reason to believe there is an existent and important connection between these two structures. 

Ballgame players are represented in Temple A’s gallery.  Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Some scholars believe that a Nahua variation on the better-known form of the Mesoamerican ballgame was practiced at Dainzú during the second century. This variation is believed to have used a type of animal hyde glove, though its rules and significance are not fully understood. 

Only the right-hand side of Dainzú’s ballcourt has been restored, showing extremely inclined marker boundaries and an especially narrow field of play. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

If you go

The best way to get to Dainzú is to taxi from Oaxaca de Júarez, the state capital. The approximately 15-mile ride is quite picturesque, and if you opt for a taxi, it should not run you more than 100-150 pesos or so. But because there are few taxis in this area, you may want to ask your driver to wait for you. 

Map of the town of Dainzú archaeological site in the state of Oaxaca. Photo: Google Maps

General admission is 85 pesos and free for students and teachers, as well as Mexican residents, on Sundays. That said, during a recent visit the entrance was free because there was nobody behind the ticket booth. 

A stone relief depicting a Zapotec lord at Dainzú. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
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