Meaning “next to the root” in Yucatec-Maya, Chunhuhub is a rarely visited Puuc-style Maya archaeological site.
Chunhuhub is near the town of Bolomchén, in the state of Campeche — or Yucatán, depending on who you ask.
This ambiguity has to do with territorial disputes between the three states that make up the Yucatán Peninsula.
People in the nearby community of Xculoc have differing opinions on the issue of what state Chunhuhub really belongs to. That being said, after interviewing a handful (admittedly not a very scientific sample) I came away with the sense they identify more as Yucatecos.
“This had always been Yucatán, then it was Campeche, then briefly Yucatán again and now Campeche once more. It’s a bit funny, but if you ask me the site really belongs in Yucatán,” said a man named Don Pedro.
According to almost all maps (including Google Maps), Chunhuhub is within the state limits of Yucatán and actually belongs to the municipality of Santa Elena.
To make things even more confusing, there is another place on the peninsula named Chunhuhub in the state of Quintana Roo. But fortunately, for this second Chunhuhub, no territorial disputes exist.
Like many sites in the Puuc region, Chunhuhub appears to have reached its zenith sometime in the 5th century, though it had likely been occupied for several hundred years before that.
When arriving at the site, you will likely discover that you have the entire place to yourself. According to the INAH guard, Don Pedro, often a week will go by without any visitors.
There is something so special about having an entire archaeological site for yourself as it allows you to really soak everything in without distraction, besides it also makes birding much easier.
The famed Austrian explorer Teoberto Maler was among the first people to report on the existence of Chunhuhub in the early 20th century, as the site appears to have been missed by the even more famous duo of John Lloyd Stephens and Frederick Catherwood, who explored the region in the 1840s.
The archaeological site itself is made up of several mostly unrestored mounds that form several plazas.
The most restored and grandiose structure at the site by far is a palatial complex near the site’s core.
The structure itself lay upon a large artificial platform and is made up of several different constructions, with the two restored main sections connected by a now collapsed vault.
Behind the complex’s exquisitely restored Puuc facade, one can observe the remains of several other structures. But most of these do not appear to have received any restoration work.
A great many sculptures and stelae have been found within El Palacio, but these have been moved to a small museum sheltered by a hut at the entrance of the site.
Personally, I feel that removing these pieces from their original location robs visitors of a bit of context, but I am sure the decision was made for good reasons likely to do with the risk of pillaging.
There are so many stone artifacts at the site that several have been placed inside the site’s small reception area, and even out front of the bathrooms — which is quite a nice touch.
If you go
If you want to visit Chunhuhub, driving yourself there will likely be your only real option, as I am not aware of any organized tours to this part of the Puuc Valley.
Driving to Chunhuhub from Mérida is likely to take just over two hours, but the road is quite scenic and full of interesting sights. The road to the site is good, something that can not be said for all of the archaeological sites in the region.
On your way to Chunhuhub, you will pass several other archaeological sites including Uxmal and Kabah, in case you are feeling ambitious.
Entrance to Chunhuhub is free, and the site has surprisingly good facilities including a good-sized parking lot (which is extremely underutilized) and clean bathrooms. Opening hours are from 8 a.m, to 5 p.m.
