The Ancient City of Dzibilnocac and its Great Towers
Dzibilnocac is located in the Chenes region, “wells” in Yucatec Mayan, which begins south of the Puuc valley and hill range, an area dominated by cities like Uxmal and Kabah. Like many sites in this region, Dzibilnocac displays a wide range of architectural influences, including Chenes, Puuc, and Río Bec styles.
While combinations of architectural styles at Maya sites are not unusual in themselves, Dzibilnocac’s location and the degree to which these forms are integrated make it exceptional. It is, as they say, an architectural hodgepodge.
The small community of Vicente Guerrero (to which Dzibilnocac belongs), also known as Iturbide, has a population of just over 3,000 and feels a world away from the well-trodden tourist paths—because, well, it is
Evidence of Maya occupation at Dzibilnocac dates back to the fifth century BCE. During this early period, the settlement mainly consisted of small raised artificial platforms topped with simple dwellings made from materials sourced from the surrounding jungle.
In the Yucatec Mayan language, Dzibilnocac means “painted vault,” though the name is sometimes also translated as “the great painted turtle.”
When entering the site, visitors are immediately greeted by the unrestored remains of what must once have been a large temple complex.
Similar structures Dzibilnocac’s Palacio can be found throughout Campeche. Their highly impractical design suggests that their use was almost entirely ceremonial.Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Damaged Puuc style rain god mask on the facade of El Palacio complex in Dzibilnocac. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der GrachtPhoto: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Temple A1, or El Palacio, dominates the core of Dzibilnocac’s large ceremonial center.Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Most ancient structures in Dzibilnocac still lay in ruins, but that does not mean that they do not have storiest to tell. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der GrachtPhoto: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Though circular structures are far from the norm in Mayan architecture, they can be found in several other Mayan sites (an regions) such as El Mecco, near modernday Cancún. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der GrachtPhoto: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
A 19th-century military structure was erected atop a Mayan temple in Vicente Guerrero, likely dating to the 5th-century CE. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der GrachtPhoto: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Several structures dating from the Caste War can be spotted in Vicente Guerrero — most of which were built by the Mexican armed forces. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der GrachtPhoto: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Though the region’s great Mayan cities fell long ago, the ancient past continues to mold modern notions of identity in the Yucatán Peninsula. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der GrachtPhoto: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Once inside the archaeological site proper, attention is drawn to a (mostly) restored structure, proudly sitting at the center of the ceremonial complex. Known as Estructura A1 or El Palacio, this building dates to the 5th century CE and is a great example of Twin Tower Chenes architecture.
At both ends of this massive complex stand two temples or towers, lined with decorative stairways that are too narrow and steep to climb. Although only one of the towers has been restored, they would presumably have been near mirror images of each other.
The structure’s main platform is nearly 80 meters long and 30 meters wide. At its center is a temple accessible via a large staircase built upon four distinct platforms. At its base sits what appears to be a niche, likely used to house a large painted stucco mask thought to depict the deity Itzamná. On both sides of the staircase are relatively small rooms, decorated with a protruding, slanted cornice—a characteristic feature of Puuc architecture.
Aside from El Palacio, one of the few restored structures at Dzibilnocac is a circular stone platform. While it may have once held a stela, its purpose was most likely ceremonial.
There are also many large mounds dominating the relatively compact archaeological park. Despite their size, these structures have yet to be restored.
In addition to its Maya ruins, the area around Dzibilnocac contains several interesting structures dating to the period of Yucatán’s Caste War. This 19th-century conflict was fought between the native Maya of the Yucatán Peninsula and the dominant European-descended socio-political class. It is widely considered the last large-scale Maya revolt in the region.
Getting to Dzibilnocac
The only feasible way to reach Dzibilnocac is to drive or book a private tour—the latter is recommended. The archaeological site is roughly two hours from Campeche and three hours from Uxmal. Dzibilnocac is best visited as part of a tour of sites in the northern Chenes area, including Santa Rosa Xtampac, Hochob, and El Tabasqueño.
If driving, plan your route. Roads can become rough, especially during the rainy season, and signage is far from optimal.
It is also advisable to fill your gas tank whenever possible, as stations in the area are scarce. Small hotels can be found in Hopelchén, which makes an ideal base for exploring this fairly remote region. Keep in mind that these hotels are quite basic, so don’t go expecting the height of luxury.
Senior Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht, PhD, is a journalist, photographer, and expedition leader. Born in Mérida, Carlos holds degrees from universities in Mexico, Canada, and Norway. Most recently, he earned a doctorate in Heritage Studies in 2026.
