The obscure caves of Aktún Usil dare adventurous souls

Carlos Rosado van der Gracht
Carlos Rosado van der Gracht
Born in Mérida, Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a Mexican/Canadian blogger, photographer and adventure expedition leader. He holds degrees in multimedia, philosophy, and translation from universities in Mexico, Canada and Norway.
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The cave system and archaeological site Aktún Usil are seldom explored by all but the most adventurous visitors to the Yucatán. 

A petroglyph depicts a monkey within the Aktún Usil cave. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

This relative obscurity likely has much to do with the fact that the site is managed by a local cooperative and receives little to no promotion.

According to the site’s caretakers, most visitors to the site and cave had never heard about it before, choosing to check it out after seeing the signs on the side of the road. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Though the cave and the remains of this ancient city have been researched by INAH, its structures, save for what was once an elite residential complex on the side of the highway, still need to be restored.

Aktún Usil’s location, architecture, and period of occupation suggest strong links with the Puuc stronghold of Oxkintok, famous for its labyrinth and grand pyramids.  

A view of Oxkintok from atop its largest pyramid. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

When approaching Aktún Usil, visitors likely notice a handful of restored artificial platforms sitting discreetly between the lanes on the highway. 

Because of the large amount of archaeology in the region, it is not unusual to see highways and other public works incorporate design elements to protect cultural heritage. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht  

At the exit to the Aktún Usil, the aforementioned restored elite residence complex sits atop a large artificial platform. Just beyond it, several signs point to the destination.

In Mesoamerican cultures like the Maya, the residences of the society’s elite are characterized by being built atop large artificial platforms. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Once you arrive at the entrance to Aktún Usil, there is a gate. Calling the numbers listed on the “no entrance” notice summons the site’s caretakers.

There is no shortage of signs along the path, which is good since otherwise, it would be easy to get lost. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Once inside, a windy stone path leads to the cave network itself, alive with the sound of chirping birds, dripping water, and large, scampering toloks (iguanas). 

Unrestored ancient mound on the way to the caves at Aktún Usi. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

The cave network at Aktún Usil is truly beautiful and makes for a fantastic opportunity to get some interesting photographs. 

The light from the surface pierces through a natural formation creating a pillar of light in the Aktún Usil caves. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Unlike other cave systems such as Lol-tún or Calcehtok, access and moving around in Aktún Asil is fairly easy, but you still better watch your step. 

The main entrance into Aktún Usil has a rope to make the descent easier, but it is really not that steep to begin with. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Inside the caves, you will notice that the walls are covered in a plethora of colors created by mineral formations, as well as plenty of stalactites, stalagmites, and several other interesting geological formations.

The interior of the cave is really beautiful and since it is fairly large, you are unlikely to feel too claustrophobic. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

But aside from the beautiful geological formations, what really makes this cave system stand out is the large amount of Prehispanic carvings and petroglyphs found in its interior. 

A closeup of Maya petroglyphs painted red on the ceiling of Aktún Usil cave, right at its entrance. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Inside the caves, several shards of ceramic and some well-preserved stone vessels were likely used to collect the water that seems to filter through the cave’s limestone structure all year. 

There is no lack of artifacts in Aktún Usil, but remember that no matter how tempted you feel to take a couple back with you, this is a grave federal offense punishable by lengthy prison sentences and hefty fines. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Also of interest are a series of handprints painted on the cave’s walls, using the same negative painting technique found at many other sites. 

Given their antiquity, it is quite remarkable that the natural pigments used to create the artworks at Aktún Usil are still visible at all. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

There are also a handful of interesting carved petroglyphs carved into the cave walls, though they are badly eroded, which is unsurprising. 

A scene carved in stone into the walls of Aktún Usil featuring elements appearing to refer to the rain god Chaac, as well as a reference to the cardinal points. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Guides at the site are also likely to point out what they identify as sculptures. Still, given the erosion of time and the high humidity inside the caves, it is hard to tell if these are genuine sculptures or just stone formations that vaguely resemble turtles, crocodiles, and the like. That said, they may be of ancient origin.

Inside the caves are a few carvings which guides claim to be of ancient origin, but given their features, some skepticism arises. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Outside the caves, you will also notice several large mounts of stone, which are the remains of ancient structures. 

An ancient mound near the gate leading to the Aktún Usil caves. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Unrestored mounds can be found just about everywhere in the area. The presence of carved stone and ceramic is a dead giveaway of their ancient origin.

The remains of a collapsed vault atop one of the many ancient structures on the grounds surrounding the Aktún Usil Caves. Photo: Carlos Rosado vans er Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

If you go

Aktún Usil is in Mexico’s Yucatán state, roughly an hour south of Mérida, along the highway to Campeche.

Location of Aktún Usil, nearby Muna, Ticul, and Maxcanú. Map: Google Maps

Finding the exit to the site is easy, though the first section of the highway is a little tricky as it’s just made up of gravel. Fortunately, the road gets much better fast. 

The road after the main exit to Aktún Usil is not marked on google maps or other similar applications I have used, so make sure to follow the signs. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

The members of the ejido that maintains Aktún Usil have done a marvelous job of keeping the grounds and receive no support from the government. It is appropriate to thank them with at least a couple hundred pesos.

Though getting to the site is not particularly demanding, go early to avoid the sun, and wear comfortable but closed shoes, not flip-flops! Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
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