The prosperous and beautiful Mayan city of Tulum
Tulum is an archaeological site that lies on the outskirts of the tourist resort town of the same name on the Caribbean coast of Quintana Roo. In Yucatec-Mayan, the word tulum means wall, but in antiquity the city was known as Záma, meaning sunrise — making reference to its orientation facing the east.
It is unknown when Tulum was first inhabited, but human remains found in and near the site date back well over 9,000 years. The earliest inscription found at the site is of 564 CE, but most constructions still visible today are much more recent and date to the 8th and 9th centuries CE.
Because of its location on a cliff overlooking the Caribbean Sea, Tulum was noticed by European sailors as early as 1518. But the first in-depth description of the site dates to 1843 and was produced by the explorers John Lloyd Stephens and Frederick Catherwood.
The architecture of Tulum is representative of Maya cities on the eastern coast of Yucatán. It has commonly been noted that this style resembles that of Chichén Itzá, though on a much smaller scale. Most structures tend to be relatively small and have walls featuring two sets of molding near the top, rooms with one of two small windows, and an altar adjacent to the back wall.
Tulum became an important trade hub for goods from across Mesoamerica, as it had easy access to well-established trade routes across both land and sea. It is, for example, believed that much of the obsidian which found it was to Yucatán from Guatemala was traded through Tulum.
But the wealth of the city also made it a target for opportunistic looters and invaders. Tulum had a strategic location and was protected on one side by steep seaside cliffs and on land by an eight-meter-tall wall that enveloped the core of the city.
There is also evidence for a network of watchtowers and controlled access points to the city through narrow passageways. Given the small size of the city core, it is likely that only the elites resided within Tulum’s walls, with the rest of the population living in its periphery in dwellings made of perishable materials above raised stone foundations. The city is also in proximity to several cenotes, and even has one within its walls.
One of the most recurring motifs found in Tulum is that of the figure known as the Descending God. This figure is always shown facing frontwards and upsidedown with arms stretched past the head and bent legs up in the air. The precise nature of this figure or deity is unknown, but many scholars suggest the Descending God was a personification of Venus or perhaps the sun.
The Castillo is the largest and most iconic structure in Tulum. It was likely built atop the ruins of a previous building and is adorned with serpent motifs carved into its facade. The structure is eight meters tall and was accessed via an ample stairway leading up to a shrine that likely functioned as a lighthouse for canoes.
The Temple of the Frescoes is a two-story structure that served as an observatory to track the movement of the stars. The facade of the temple is decorated with several images of the Descending God.
The complex known as El Palacio was likely a residential complex for the cities elite. It had three levels and was 85 meters long and 35 meters wide. The design of the structure has elements of both Puuc and Teotihuacan architecture.
If you go
Tulum is one of the most visited archaeological sites in Mexico and receives hordes of tour buses every day. Because the site is so small, crowding is common and all of the structures are cordoned off to avoid people attempting to climb them. Getting to Tulum from anywhere in the Mayan Riviera is very easy, as tours abound. It is also fairly easy to drive to the site because signage is very good and there is ample parking. You can also choose to take one of the many buses departing from Cancun or Playa del Carmen, which have stops directly in front of the archaeological site.
Unfortunately, 15 years ago or so the parking lot was moved about a kilometer-and-a-half away from the entrance to the site, likely in an effort to get tourists to pay (two dollars I think) for a ride to the archaeological site. If you are relatively fit, this should not be too bad but on hot days it can really be strenuous. The areas around the site are also full of vendors selling “authentic” souvenirs, which include ponchos sporting NFL logos and figurines with large genitals. I wish I were joking.
If you go make sure to get there early to beat the crowds at 9 a.m. Most visitors spend less than an hour touring the site, but many choose to descend to the beautiful beach below to snap some photos or take a swim.
As with all archaeological sites in Mexico, it is prohibited to bring food or drink, other than water. The entrance fee is 80 pesos Monday through Saturday. And on Sunday admittance is free for Mexican nationals and foreign residents of Mexico with ID. Use of facemasks is compulsory.
Senior Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a Mexican expedition/Canadian photographer and adventure leader. Born in Mérida, Carlos holds multimedia, philosophy, and translation degrees from universities in Mexico, Canada and Norway.
