The Temple of Masks: Unveiling Kohunlich’s Mysteries
Though inhabited as early as the 2nd century BC, Kohunlich’s architectural peak occurred between the 3rd and 4th centuries AD. The ancient Maya city, 40 miles west of Chetumal, Quintana Roo, has over 200 structures, ranging from monumental pyramids to humble thatched homes.
The city’s name, a variation of the English “Cohoon Ridge,” is a nod to the exotic Cohune Palms that dominate the landscape. These palms, standing tall and proud, alongside a vibrant array of birds and the peaceful howler monkeys, create a lush and captivating atmosphere that will enchant every visitor, making them feel connected to the rich nature of Kohunlich.
Kohunlich’s urban design is a testament to ingenuity. It features an efficient water collection system that still functions today, a marvel that will surely impress every visitor. The city’s layout, with trails winding through the jungle and leading to unexpected encounters with towering pyramids, allows for free exploration, giving visitors the freedom to discover the city at their own pace.
The Acropolis, the city’s central plaza, is surrounded by grand pyramids and ceremonial platforms. While Kohunlich showcases the Rio Bec architectural style, elements of the Chenes style are also evident.
The Temple of Masks, dedicated to the sun god, is the site’s most renowned feature. Five of the original eight stucco masks depicting the solar deity Kʼinich Ajaw remain, remarkably well-preserved with traces of their original paint. A thatched roof protects the temple’s top section, safeguarding the valuable artifacts within.
If You Go
Kohunlich is easily accessible from Chetumal and Xpujil, and many tour companies in Chetumal offer day trips. The site is open, with well-maintained facilities, including bathrooms and a ticket booth where water and soft drinks are available. Remember, food and drink (other than water) are prohibited on-site. Admission is 70 pesos Monday through Saturday and free for Mexican nationals and foreign residents with ID on Sundays.
The area surrounding Kohulich is extremely lush with vegetation and full of interesting birds. If you hear howls coming from the nearby jungle, don’t be alarmed. The howler monkeys that inhabit the jungle are very peaceful with humans — just make sure to not feed them or else they may follow you.
One of the most enjoyable aspects of Kohunlich is its open layout that allows you to freely roam the site on a number of trails. You will find yourself strolling down a small jungle path, when boom, all of a sudden you are standing next to an enormous pyramid and wondering how something so large could have snuck up on you.
Given the lack of easily accessible fresh surface water, the urban design of Kohunlich features an efficient system of water collection and storage. Several cisterns are in place, a fairly common sight in the region’s large settlements. Some sections of these cisterns can still be seen overflowing during the rainy season.
When entering the site you will first see a large central plaza, known as the Acropolis, which is ringed by several large pyramids and ceremonial platforms.
Kohunlich is a good example of Rio Bec architecture, though some elements of the Chenes style are also observable.
The city also has several smaller plazas, ceremonial centers, ballcourts and residential complexes.
The most famous feature of the site is without a doubt the Temple of Masks dedicated to the sun god. The facade of this large structure once featured eight large sun god masks along its central staircase. Only five survive to this day. Fortunately, the remaining stucco masks depicting the solar deity Kʼinich Ajaw are in remarkably good condition with traces of original paint still being clearly visible.
If you go
As with all archaeological sites in Mexico, food and drink other than water are prohibited. The entrance fee is 70 pesos Monday through Saturday. On Sundays, admittance is free for Mexican nationals and foreign residents (with ID).
Signage to the site is good from both Chetumal in the east and Xpujil in the west. Many tour companies operating in Chetumal offer day trips at competitive prices.
The site’s facilities are surprisingly decent, given its remote location. The bathrooms are large and clean, and the folks at the INAH ticket booth have water and soft drinks for sale. if you are lucky, they sometimes even have working public WiFi.
Senior Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a Mexican expedition/Canadian photographer and adventure leader. Born in Mérida, Carlos holds multimedia, philosophy, and translation degrees from universities in Mexico, Canada and Norway.
