The Tho bird, Yucatán’s most beloved avian friend
Beautiful tropical birds are constantly aflutter in Yucatán, especially during the rainy season. There are common species like social flycatchers, which sport bright yellow chests and black stripes across their eyes, and elegant pink flamingos that grace the coastline.
Then there is the pandemonium of parrots (yes, that’s what they are called) who make themselves heard loudly during mornings and evenings. But be they common or rare, each brings its own special dash of magic to this lush land.
Ask locals which is the most iconic of the native birds of the Yucatán Peninsula; there is little doubt that the answer for most would be, “pues claro que el pajaro Toh.” Belonging to the motmot family, the Toh bird has several features that deliver it a regal status, even though it is pretty standard if you know where and how to look. For this reason, even though keeping caged birds is increasingly unusual, the sight of a caged Toh is particularly offensive.
Near the end of the twin stems of the Toh’s twin tails known as barbs, its plumage ceases, only to burst dramatically in a multicolored tear shape resembling a double pendulum. This, their most identifiable feature, which they swing back and forth, makes spotting the Toh reasonably easy despite its otherwise shy nature.
According to local legend, the bald spot on the Toh’s tail resulted from its hubris: One day, a powerful storm approached, and its inflated ego prevented it from getting to work on building a shelter, opting instead to rise high in the foliage above all other birds. After the storm, the Toh emerged, and all other birds began to mock it, chirping, “Your precious tail, it is ruined!” But given its proud nature, the Toh shrugged off the mockery, swinging its tail back and forth in a way that even the Macaws and Toucans had to admit bashfully was magnificent.
The emerald and blue-browed Toh are among the most common in the region and can be spotted in large numbers near bodies of water. But this does not mean you must leave the city to catch a glimpse. If you keep your eyes peeled, they can be observed in city parks like Ya’axal in the west of Mérida or Chen Hó more to the east.
Despite being fairly common, spotting a Toh rarely goes unremarked. My wife and I often brag about how many of these elegant birds we could spot during our evening runs.
You can always take an early morning outing to the outskirts of town or a nearby cenote. If you remain mindful, step lightly, and look up, the Toh will more than likely reveal itself and heed your call.
Senior Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a Mexican expedition/Canadian photographer and adventure leader. Born in Mérida, Carlos holds multimedia, philosophy, and translation degrees from universities in Mexico, Canada and Norway.
