Tikal Before Dawn: New Perspectives, Things That Go Bump in the Night, and the Sublime
There is something profound about standing atop Tikal’s famed Temple IV as the first light of dawn breaks over the jungle canopy. A sunrise expedition to Tikal, Guatemala’s most iconic archaeological site, is more than just another tour — it’s an experience that stays with you.
But things do not start there, and like anything genuinely worth it, this experience requires a little sacrifice. This sacrifice comes in the form of wrestling out of bed in Flores at 2:30 a.m. to be ready for the arrival of the van to the site at the ungodly hour of 3 a.m. Needless to say, a strong coffee is in order. It takes roughly an hour and 20 minutes to get from the famed Island of Flores on Lake Petén Itzá to Tikal. There are also hotel rooms closer to the site in the tiny community of El Remate. There is nothing wrong with El Remate, and it is a little cheaper, but frankly, if you’re going for the Petén experience, you may as well stay in Flores — as it in itself is more than a worthwhile destination.
Regardless, by the time you arrive in Tikal with your group — and yes, this type of morning tour requires that you book with an agency — it will still be pitch black. The walk through the jungle at night is pleasant, though you have to watch your step as loose stones and roots are everywhere. Guides advise visitors to follow them and stick to the path to avoid creepy crawlers and slithering snakes. But what is a little risk compared to the opportunity to take in Tikal’s magnificent ancient architecture in a light, or lack thereof, that few are privileged enough to experience.
Bringing along a tripod to get very low-light shots of these impressive structures is best, though in some cases, a flashlight may be enough to get a quick snapshot as you jaunt along. Having been to Tikal on several occasions before, but only once during this sunrise tour, after reaching a fork in the road, I strayed from the group to the Great Acropolis to set down my trusty action camera for a long exposure of Temple I in hopes I would get a unique photo. I knew I had “maybe” broken the rules by leaving the group (I definitely had), but could not bring myself to be too sorry about it. After all, there are way worse, or at least more boring, ways to meet one’s maker than as the result of running into a predator in the jungle. Imagine the stories people would tell! Morbid fantasies aside. I let my trusty camera, shutter wide open, do its thing for as long as I could until the signs of first dawn became audible. I packed everything up, awkwardly sprinting towards Temple IV, not wanting to miss out on my wife’s reaction to what was to come.
Having arrived at temple IV, it was time to climb 70 meters (roughly 230 feet) of stairs to the summit via a wooden staircase where a cadre of inpatient folks stared at their watches, waiting for the show to begin.
Shortly thereafter, the sky transitioned from pitch black to indigo to a soft gold, the jungle below awakening. Mist began to rise between the towering pyramids, as the silhouettes of Temples I, II, and III emerged from the shadows. Then, as the sun peeked over the horizon, the entire ancient city was bathed in an awe-inspiring golden light, interrupted by the occasional person saying, “You know this is where they filmed Star Wars,” inevitably followed by shushes from those wanting to experience the magic in contemplative silence.
Then, all of a sudden, the jungle springs to life as a few chirps here and there transition into the howling of countless monkeys. This creates an eerie but beautiful cacophony punctuated by the calls of exotic birds, including toucans, trogons, hawks, and the majestic oropendola. At this point, everyone lucky enough to witness this sight is silent with an open jaw.
When witnessing such a thing, even the most cynical among us is compelled to agree that this is no ordinary sunrise. What it is, is sublime. Then again, it is also just the beginning of a day of exploration at one of the most extraordinary places on Earth.
Senior Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a journalist, photographer and adventure leader. Born in Mérida, Carlos holds degrees from universities in Mexico, Canada, and Norway.
