Papalotes: Experience Toledo’s Whimsical Kites at Casa de Montejo
Francisco Toledo’s Papalotes (kites in Nahuatl) take “flight” at Casa de Montejo, a 16th-century architectural jewel in Mérida’s Plaza Grande. Los Papalotes de Toledo is a whimsical exhibition celebrating the kites of artist Francisco Toledo (1940–2019). The show has captivated attendees at several venues across the country with its fusion of artistry and cultural heritage.
Past and present
Recently revitalized to preserve its colonial grandeur while enhancing its function as a cultural hub, Casa de Montejo now boasts reinforced historical details — original arches, restored frescoes, and improved lighting—that provide an elegant backdrop for Toledo’s vibrant, suspended kites. The restoration, overseen by Fomento Cultural Banamex, ensures the building’s legacy endures while accommodating modern exhibitions.
Curator María Hernández notes, “Toledo’s kites are not just objects; they are storytellers. Displaying them in this space creates a poetic contrast—the weight of colonial history against the lightness of flight, tradition in conversation with imagination.”
Toledo’s Kites
Beyond their aesthetic beauty, these works reflect Toledo’s lifelong activism—his reverence for nature, his defense of indigenous rights, and his belief in art as a force for social change. The exhibition also pays homage to his role as a cultural guardian, having founded key institutions like Oaxaca’s Instituto de Artes Gráficas (IAGO) and the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo (MACO).
Surreal animal imagery
Francisco Toledo’s work teems with creatures—bats, iguanas, toads, insects, and fantastical hybrids—that are far more than decorative elements. They are mythic messengers, cultural symbols, and political allegories deeply rooted in Zapotec cosmology, environmental activism, and social critique. In Los Papalotes de Toledo, these animals take flight, both literally and metaphorically.
Toledo, a proud Zapotec from Juchitán, Oaxaca, drew from pre-Hispanic myths where animals were sacred intermediaries between humans and the divine. Bats, for example, symbolize darkness and rebirth in Mesoamerican lore (linked to the Maya god Camazotz), while toads represent rain and fertility. By reimagining them in his kites and paintings, Toledo preserved indigenous narratives threatened by modernization.
Toledo’s animals often morph into grotesque or erotic hybrids, mocking greed, corruption, and human folly. His rabbits with human teeth or lizards with dollar-sign eyes critique consumerism and political power. In Los Papalotes, a kite might resemble a smiling shark — a nod to predatory capitalism — or a grasshopper weighed down by coins, symbolizing exploitation.
Despite their deeper meanings, Toledo’s creatures brim with humor and whimsy. He once said, “Animals are my alphabet.” For Toledo, they were also childhood companions, recalling Oaxaca’s rivers, forests, and streets. A giant butterfly kite might evoke nostalgia in the exhibition, while a spider (a recurring motif) nods to his fascination with weavers and artisans.
“Toledo’s animals are mirrors. They show us our fears, our follies, and the beauty we’re at risk of losing.” says Art Critic Eduardo de la Vega
Visitor reception
Since its opening, the exhibition has drawn crowds of locals and international art lovers alike. Ana López, a visitor from Mexico City, shared, “Seeing Toledo’s kites up close feels like stepping into a myth. How they move slightly in the air currents makes them almost alive.” Meanwhile, Diego Martínez, an Oaxacan artist, remarked, “Toledo was a guardian of our culture. These kites carry the soul of Oaxaca — playful but profound.”
Children, in particular, have been mesmerized by the larger-than-life creations, some shaped like bats, fish, and fantastical beasts. “It’s magical,” said 8-year-old Sofía, gazing up at a kite resembling a soaring crocodile.
Why Visit Now?
With Casa de Montejo’s restoration complete, this exhibition offers a unique chance to experience Toledo’s genius in a setting that bridges centuries. Whether you’re an art enthusiast, a history buff, or simply seeking inspiration, Los Papalotes de Toledo celebrates creativity’s power to uplift and transform. Best of all, admission is free.
Visit Casa de Montejo’s official website for guided tours and workshop schedules.
Senior Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a journalist, photographer, and expedition leader. Born in Mérida, Carlos holds degrees from universities in Mexico, Canada, and Norway.
