Uncovering Guanajuato: A City of Many Layers and Rich History
Living in Merida for 10 years has had its challenges with direct flights to desirable destinations. Avoiding the chaos in Mexico City has always been top of mind. As much as I adore the city and visit it frequently, making connections through MEX has been problematic.
With the expansion of our airport, direct flights have increased, making the rest of the world just slightly closer and easier to get to. Guanajuato was never on my radar until a direct flight to León popped up one day while I was scouring the internet for a weekend away.
Nestled in the heart of Mexico and perched high in the hills, Guanajuato can feel like a dream that has been brought to life. It has many levels to uncover. The city will captivate any traveler with its winding cobblestone streets, colorful colonial architecture, and rich history.
Guanajuato has been under the watchful eye of UNESCO since the nearby mines were proclaimed a World Heritage Site in 1988. One of the world’s largest silver-producing areas, Guanajuato played a key role in filling the coffers of New Spain. The most important mine, La Valenciana, was a key source of silver for decades starting in 1768, producing more silver than all the mines in Peru, with estimates of providing 30% of the entire world’s supply. Though the minerals are not as plentiful as they once were, the mines continue to operate daily, providing an economic windfall for the city.
The layers of this city are most evident as you traverse it, either by foot or by car; around each corner, a tunnel appears. These carefully constructed stone structures were first built to prevent flooding by leading the Guanajuato River away from the city center. It was in the 1960s that these fortified riverways were showing signs of stress, and, for fear of collapsing, they were reinforced. When the project was completed, they were converted to vehicular traffic, creating a network of underground passageways that are as confusing for visitors as they are for locals. Do not expect that predictable colonial Spanish grid system of calles we all love here. The extreme hilly terrain makes you wish you skipped that second empanada at breakfast.
Once you get a handle on the city, you soon realize that all that digging in Mother Earth has paid off for many by the countless plazas, colorful colonial-era mansions and the number of churches that rival Mexico City. The center of life here is the Plaza Mayor. Once the home to the wealthiest families in Guanajuato, government buildings and the local parish house of worship that happens to be a basilica. Basilica Colegiata de Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato took over 20 years to construct with generous donations from the miners; then, the wealthy nobility contributed their influence. This sober Baroque church is massive and not to be missed. This impressive pink sandstone structure has been the center of faith since its completion in 1696.
The main altar is not to be missed, showcasing the image of Our Lady of Guanajuato, the patroness of the city, with the addition of a few relics and a gift from the Pope, it achieved basilica status in 1957. It is on a gentle slope in the city center, commanding a presence crowning the Peace Plaza.
One does not have to walk far to be impressed with the architecture here. One stand-out is the Juarez Theater, another blatant show of the city’s wealth. This Neoclassical-style building is adjacent to the San Diego Church and across the street from the Jardin de la Union. The theater took nearly 30 years to build, and with an over-the-top eclectic interior, it makes for an interesting visit. The building has been under renovation for some months, and this year, it will be unveiled for the El Cervantino Festival.
The city’s riches also fueled the cultural experience, adding yet another level of entertainment. Back in 1953, the University of Guanajuato created an annual event showcasing the works of Miguel de Cervantes, who we all know penned the novel Don Quixote in 1605. This is held during October and showcases many genres of works in Spanish, along with music and dance. The festival attracts fans worldwide, even royalty: Queen Elizabeth and Prince Phillip attended in 1975 but did not arrive until all the city tunnels were scrubbed clean for their motorcade.
Walking the city is the best way to get a sense of the diversity of the terrain, the people, and all that it has to offer. With the multiple levels one has to climb or descend, it is nearly impossible to get your bearings.
Guanajuato feels a little like Venice sans the canals. Alleys play an intricate part in the culture and its history. Some have whimsical names, and others are narrow and dark, adding a sense of mystery. Sal si Puedes, also known as the alley called “Exit if you Can,” is best visited during daylight hours. The most famous alley has a romantic tale of forbidden love and strict family values. Young lovers had to balance across the narrow alley from their respective balconies to kiss. Callejon del Beso is the “Alley of the Kiss.” For a small fee and a long wait in line, you too can recreate the iconic moment, provided you have someone on the other balcony to display your affection with.
Guanajuato’s colorful past is never-ending. I would be remiss if I did not mention that the city played a key role during the War of Independence for Mexico. Father Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, better known as the Father of the Nation, hailed from a nearby parish. This Catholic priest was able to unite multiple social groups and to rise up against the Spanish, namely King Ferdinand VIII, to initiate the first conflict of the rebellion. It was on Sept. 28, 1810, when Hidalgo arrived in the city with over 800 devotees. The loyalists, the wealthy, and the Royalist Troops had taken refuge in the city’s granary. This imposing grain warehouse, with its thick walls, small windows, and only one door, gave the occupants a false sense of security. It was no match for the insurgents, and there went the door up in flames, and the rest, as they say, “is history.”
This city is one of my favorites for all the right reasons, with too many to mention. If your interests are architecture, culinary delights, romantic settings, or Mexican history, you can’t go wrong here in Guanajuato City. The vibe at night is as infectious as it is during the day. Strolling and people-watching is not a pastime but, literally, a sport.
In the city’s center, eateries are plentiful, specializing in a creative blend of pre-Hispanic, Spanish, and indigenous tastes. There is a great street food scene featuring their versions of tamales, gorditas, and tacos, all tasty. But try the Guacamaya, one of the most popular sandwiches there; this delight is made with a type of bread called Bolillo stuffed with pork, potatoes, and a spicy sauce with peppers. To balance the palate, avocado is placed on top, which is just another layer this city offers.
I recommend a four-night visit, a short early morning direct flight over, and three full days to stroll and savor all it offers. With a large assortment of colonial hotels, both boutique and grand, there is something for every budget.
Whatever your reason to explore this vast and truly authentic countryside, there is no better time to show loyalty to your adopted country than now. Travel has a way of pulling it all together in real-time.
My carry-on is ready, and I am too. Next stop, perhaps Chiapas.
If you go
Getting there:
Viva Aerobus offers a direct flight from Mérida. The times can vary, so flexibility is key. MID > BJX (Leon, Aeropuerto International del Bajio) 2:15 hours.
Ground transportation:
No need to rent a car; many reasonable car services take you directly to your hotel in the city center. The ride is less than 45 minutes and less than 35 kilometers. They are plentiful as you exit the airport terminal.
Uber is also available and very reasonable within Guanajuato. But walking is the easiest and most beneficial for the view and your health.
Where to sleep
I stayed at a very nice colonial inn, El Meson de los Poetas, which is less than a five-minute walk in any direction. The central market, the kissing alley and the Basilica are but a few steps away. Book a room with a balcony overlooking the city. The breakfasts and the service are exceptional.
What’s for supper?
For something simple after a travel day, I enjoyed the small family-run restaurant that offers a variety of pasta, seafood and the “best pizza.” Fratello Ristorante, Positos con Santos Niño No 1. Instagram: @Fratello_gto
Another one I really enjoyed with friends was the unassuming Pink Pepper. The place has a bohemian vibe, and the service is exceptional. The mole is their specialty, and the shank was to die for. They lacked a full bar, with a limited beer selection and no gin. Sacrilege! Facebook: Pimienta Rosa Guanajuato
For a wonderful meal, lunch or dinner, Casa Valadez-Anfitrion & Gourmet wins the race. The décor, the service and especially the wine list was a welcome treat. Try the Poke bowl with shrimp, or if tacos are your thing, the beef were over-the-top. Directly across the street from the Juarez Theater. www.casavaladez.com
Who to talk to:
For a tour guide with all the secrets to this city contact Robert Del Valle. Tell him I sent you, be sure to wear good walking shoes. Email: rdelvalle.gto@gmail.com; WhatsApp: +52 473-122.-0931
Dave O. Dodge is a misplaced New Englander and lifelong supporter of small businesses and charities. His writing has been featured in Food & Flourish, Bite, Frontdoors, Prime Living, Echo and INMexico. His current projects are “The Seasons of Grace – The unauthorized origin of Peyton Place” and a retelling of the 1960s “Betty & Barney Hill Abduction.” Dave and his husband own and operate Ochenta y Dos [an urban bed & breakfast} and #82adventures, a private excursion company specializing in the Yucatan.
