Despite travel warnings in Zacatecas, the sun shines, along with its silver
Government travel warnings tell us that Zacatecas is not a “safe state” like Nayarit or Yucatán, but to discount it completely would be a mistake. After all, Zacatecas can be seen as a microcosm of sorts regarding the ills that afflict Mexico in general.
Zacatecas is known for its baroque architecture, steep alleyways, historical sites, stunning panoramic vistas, rich cultural life — and some of the worst violence in Mexico.
The unrest that has tainted the state of Zacatecas, though concentrated in specific regions of the state, including Fresnillo, its largest city, keeps away all but the most daring visitors.
This is not to minimize the security situation in Zacatecas but to highlight what it has going for it. This is also not a call to pack your bags and set off for Zacatecas, at least not yet.
All of this said, the capital of Zacatecas, also called Zacatecas, is one of the most beautiful colonial cities in the entire country, on par with Guanajuato, Querétaro, or Mérida.
Pink City
Other than the narrow streets in the centro historico, travelers often notice the natural pink hue of the stones from which many of its colonial churches are built. This is why Zacatecas is frequently known as the Pink City.
Stones aside, Zacatecas boasts some of the most impactful baroque colonial architecture in the Americas—its most famous example is its imposing cathedral, built in 1625.
Zacatecas’ extensive silver mines funded the construction of temples of such magnificence, a resource that continues to play an important role in the state’s economy.
Aside from the architecture, one of the city’s main tourism draws is a cable car that runs from the Centro Historico up to the Cerro de la Bufa, a steep hill once home to several indigenous peoples, including the Chichimecas and Caxcanes.
Climbing the Cerro de la Bufa is also possible along a series of trails, though it is quite the slog. But to each their own.
Calle Hidalgo
The historic center of the city is dominated by La Calle Hidalgo, named after Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, the father of Mexican independence. Along Calle Hidalgo, you can find several charming hotels at competitive prices, excellent cafes, and street markets — especially on weekends.
While the outskirts of Zacatecas could be described as sketchy at best, the core of the old city feels safe. However, caution is always recommended, and it’s best not to go out alone after dark, especially alone.
“We know our reputation, and sadly its deserved. But we all dream of the day people from all over the world can feel safe to visit … because, as you can see, the sun shines brightly here,” says Zacatecas native Edmundo Garza, who is employed as a waiter.
During most of the year, Zacatecas is mostly devoid of tourists. The city is inexpensive, with full meals for as little as 100 pesos. The one exception is Easter (Semana Santa) when tourism takes a sudden uptick thanks to the arrival of the faithful from around the region.
But the modest increase in price is well worth it when you consider that the city is at its safest during this time, given the increased police presence and watchfulness of authorities who do not want any more negative press.
Just 30 miles southwest of the city lay the Prehispanic city of La Quemada, whose citadel is among the most impressive in all of Mesoamerica. Despite how impressive it is, this archaeological site and its adjacent museum attract few visitors, making finding an excursion company to take you as part of a group difficult.
That said, for those with an interest in Mesoamerican architecture, hiring a private driver from a reputable agency is well worth the roughly US$150—though admittedly, this is from the perspective of a nonapologetic archaeology nerd.
Fellow travelers
During my recent trip, I ran into a few other travelers, including a somewhat eccentric gentleman from British Columbia who had cycled his way down from Tijuana to Zacatecas, seemingly without a care in the world. I also met a Swedish woman with a local boyfriend who assured me that the whole safety situation was overblown. I politely nodded my head, knowing full well this was not the case.
There is no denying that Zacatecas really has to get its act together if it ever wants to become a destination for pilgrims during Easter. I wholeheartedly hope it does. Viva México y viva Zacatecas.
Senior Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a Mexican expedition/Canadian photographer and adventure leader. Born in Mérida, Carlos holds multimedia, philosophy, and translation degrees from universities in Mexico, Canada and Norway.
