Urban sprawl and the destruction of Mérida’s largest pyramid at X’catzmil
X’catzmil is perhaps the most overlooked archaeological site in Mérida, in the community of Plan de Ayala, near the city’s southern boundary.
The fact that X’catzmil is so overlooked is unfortunate since it is home to possibly the largest Prehispanic structure still surviving within Mérida’s city limits — excluding Dzibilchaltún in Chablekal.
Reliable sources on X’catzmil are few and far between, but they suggest that INAH has never intervened on the site.
The oldest photographs of the site date to 1997, though even then, the three visible structures once at the site’s core were already severely damaged by looters.
“When I was a little girl, the mound was at least twice as large as it is now, and that’s not just because I used to be so much smaller. Everyone around here seems to agree on that,” said a neighbor of the once great ceremonial complex named Bertha.
The pillaging of the site appears to continue into the 21st century. Measurements made of the site’s largest structure in 2000 claim it was 18 meters high. Today, it has shrunk to just 15 meters.
The damage to this main structure is obvious, as large sections of the pyramid show direct signs of the removal of carved stones, many of which can be seen integrated into the construction of nearby homes.
To make matters even worse, further damage to these structures is apparent between periods as brief as January 2023 and November 2024. However, most of that damage appears to result from vegetation growth around the pyramid summit, which houses the structure’s most intact section.
At the summit of the pyramid is evidence of ancient chambers, complete with stone lintels that once supported ceilings connecting interior chambers. These remains are extremely interesting to see, but I caution anyone wanting to take a look not to attempt scaling the pyramid as the ascent is quite dangerous, given loose stones and the damage this does to the structure.
Aside from the main pyramid, two other discrete structures can be easily seen at X’catzmil. Both are in an even worse state of conservation than the main pyramid.
It is also apparent, even with the naked eye, that several of the homes in the area are built atop ancient artificial platforms as an inexpensive solution to avoid flooding.
Several properties in the surrounding area also have large carved, though severely eroded, stones set up as decorations and even benches on their front porch.
Fields and corridors further afield from the core of the site also show evidence of Prehispanic constructions, as smaller carved stones and ceramics are abundant.
Of course, it would be preferable that these structures and their materials be respected, as this is the law. Still, there is something fascinating about contemporary Maya populations repurposing their ancestors’ temples to build their own homes.
What survives of X’catzmil is likely too far gone to be restored, and given the historical lack of interest in doing so — any recovery seems extremely unlikely.
This is a relatively rough part of town, so visiting, especially after sundown, is not recommended. You may be better off just enjoying the photos here.
Along with dozens of other archaeological remains within Mérida’s city limits, X’catzmil reminds us that the city is just the most recent incarnation of a region that has thrived for thousands of years.
Senior Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a Mexican expedition/Canadian photographer, adventure leader, and PhD candidate. Born in Mérida, Carlos holds multimedia, philosophy, and translation degrees from universities in Mexico, Canada and Norway.
