Xcunyá: Discover Archaeology and Wildlife in Mérida’s Jungle to the North
Located between Dzibilchaltún and Tamanché, Xcunyá is a community of roughly 1,000 people, though this is likely to change, as developers have begun marketing the community for both residential and commercial use.
Xcunyá is best known for its neo-Gothic church dedicated to John the Baptist and Hacienda Misnébalam, a supposedly haunted hacienda where locals offer tours on foot and bicycle to explore its spooky nooks and crannies.
The tiny community also has a small but picturesque cemetery that serves as a good starting point for exploring the treasures hidden within its surrounding jungle paths.
Archaeological evidence suggests that Xcunyá was first settled by Maya peoples roughly in the year 300 B.C.E. When walking through the community’s jungle paths, visitors with a keen eye can easily spot several carved stones, and the remains of ancient platforms, which once were used as foundations for homes made out of perishable materials scavenged from the surrounding jungle.
Once you walk through these paths for 10 or 15 minutes, these platforms transition from the remains of modest abodes into full-blown Mayan temples, some of which have multiple chambers. Though INAH has intervened in a handful of these structures, the thick vegetation that covers them makes it evident that they do not receive regular maintenance, which is not surprising, given that within Mérida’s city limits, there exist 212 archaeological sites.
Most of these structures were likely elite residences, as within their interiors, archaeologists discovered valuable obsidian tools likely imported from Guatemala, flint figurines, and the remains of mollusk shells from the coast—something that was not included in the diet of most commoners, at least not those living inland.
One of the most interesting and well-preserved structures at Xcunyá is an edifice with especially thick and high walls, which, given its characteristics, may have served as a granary. The size of this structure is most obvious when standing on its sturdy walls. At ground level, it’s possible to appreciate the remarkable condition of these impressive walls, which measure almost six feet from the floor. Here, it’s important to remember that during antiquity, the ground level was likely considerably lower, given the nearly 2,000 years of buildup of soil and debris, which only makes these walls all the more impressive.
When looking at the walls built by farmers and community residents, it is easy to see that a great many of these were extracted from these temples, an extremely common practice. Though this practice is now illegal, it continues to some degree, which is unfortunate, especially as the first pieces to go are those on the facades of the structures, which are carved and can provide more insights into their architectural style.
That said, if you poke around a bit and speak with locals, they will sometimes invite you into their homes where they keep carved stones as bases for potted plants, adornments, or family relics. For the most part, these carved stones bear the hallmarks of Puuc style architecture, which makes sense given the location of the site. That said, there is also good reason to believe that the oldest of the constructions of Xcunyá exhibit features consistent with Petén style architecture, which has its origins in southern Campeche and Quintana Roo, but most famously in Guatemala.
It has long been known that Peténero Maya peoples made their way up to the northern Yucatán Peninsula well over 2500 years ago, with some archaeologists dating their first expeditions as far back as the 8th century BCE. The alleged age of Xcunyá would suggest that it was built as an agricultural hub to help serve larger cities, of which it was likely a vassal (perhaps Komchén or Dzibilchaltún). Regardless, the presence of sacbés at the site and imported goods makes it clear that Xcunyá was well integrated into the economy of the region, and after centuries of intermarriage between Yucatec and Peténero Maya peoples began to develop their own architectural and artistic styles.
Archaeology aside, Xcunyá is also notable for its beautiful jungle paths, which make you forget that you are technically still within the municipality of Mérida. These paths are also home to several local species of birds, including Mot Mots and Yucatán Jays, so keep your eyes open and binoculars at the ready.
Because of its proximity, Xcunyá makes for a great day trip, especially if you combine it with other fascinating sites in Mérida’s far north. Keep in mind that the area is especially humid, so it’s important to bring good shoes or boots, pants, and long sleeves to protect you from the sometimes itchy vegetation, and most importantly, plenty of water.
Visit Xcunyá with us!
If you are interested in visiting Xcunyá or any of the hundreds of archaeological sites in the region, why not take a personalized tour with us? Contact carlos.rosado@roofcatmedia.com for more information.
Senior Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a journalist, photographer and adventure leader. Born in Mérida, Carlos holds degrees from universities in Mexico, Canada, and Norway.
