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From the soil to the table: A journey through Mestiza de Indias

Gonzalo Samaranch has always had a deep passion for food. 

His passion for culinary experiences led him to create Mestiza de Indias, a groundbreaking agricultural project in the Yucatán Peninsula. Inspired by the region’s rich biodiversity and the challenges local Maya communities face, the native of Catalonia sought to develop a sustainable food system that would empower farmers, preserve traditional knowledge, and provide high-quality, nutritious food.

Teresa de Jesus Cén Requena, 44, plucks a jackfruit (or “yaca” in Spanish) grown at Mestiza de Indias, a 544-acre regenerative farm in San Pedro Chenchelá, Yucatán. Photograph by Bénédicte Desrus for Yucatán Magazine

Driven by a desire to positively impact the Yucatán Peninsula, Gonzalo identified two key factors that inspired the creation of Mestiza de Indias: the growing demand for local products in the Riviera Maya and the pressing social issues facing indigenous communities. 

Hundreds of locals of the region surrounding Espita were migrating to tourist destinations such as Cancún and the Mayan Riviera in search of work, leaving their traditional agricultural practices behind and contributing to the loss of know-how and food security. 

Field worker in Yucatan Mexico
José Ignacio Canché Na, 53, creates a tomato trellis with henequén rope in Mestiza de Indias in San Pedro Chenchelá, Yucatán. Photo: Bénédicte Desrus for Yucatán Magazine

Gonzalo envisioned a project that would provide a source of income for local farmers, preserve their cultural heritage, and improve their access to healthy food. With this vision in mind, he purchased a 250-hectare / 680-acre piece of land and began to organize.

“It is a win-win for everyone. People get to stay in their communities, and high-end hotels and restaurants in places like Tulum get to work with the very highest quality ingredients they simply could not get otherwise,” Gonzalo says. 

One of Mestiza de Indias’ defining features is its focus on preserving heirloom seeds. These ancient varieties have been passed down through generations and are far more diverse both genetically and in their flavors than industrially cultivated species. By cultivating heirloom tomatoes, peppers, and other crops, Gonzalo aims to promote biodiversity and provide chefs with unique and flavorful ingredients.

Gonzalo Samaranch Granados, 48, founder of Mestiza de Indias and his wife Martha Elena Chan Tuz, 33, prepare handmade red corn tortillas with fire-roasted eggplants, chives, Guajillo chili and garlic flowers. Photograph by Bénédicte Desrus for Yucatán Magazine

“It’s quite ironic that Mexico, the birthplace of tomatoes, has become so dependent on just a few varieties. Sure, they have thicker skins and a longer shelf life, but they taste so bland. That is why chefs are willing to pay a premium for our varieties and let loose with their creativity,” explains Gonzalo. 

To ensure the continued vitality of these heirloom seeds, Mestiza de Indias relies on the work of native pollinators. Bees, butterflies, and other insects play a crucial role in plant reproduction, and their presence is essential for maintaining a healthy agricultural ecosystem. 

Man holding large ammount of organic carrots
Saturnino Vech Pech, 20, holds a mix of heirloom carrots just harvested at Mestiza de Indias. Photograph by Bénédicte Desrus for Yucatán Magazine

As a second phase of the project, Mestiza de Indias started up their own apiary, focused on creating as clean a habitat for these pollinators as possible. This led to the honey production operation being set up deep in the jungle, where the water is clean and pesticide-free native flowers abound. 

While working near the apiary, Gonzalo and his workers were surprised to come across a special native vanilla species. Unlike the more common commercially available vanilla, this variety was a wild gem as it is naturally pollinated by a rare species of green bee unique to Yucatán. Its distinctive flavor profile and genetic purity offer a flavor profile unlike any other. Moreover, the discovery of this native vanilla species holds significant ecological importance, as it represents a genetic lineage specific o the conditions of the Yucatán Peninsula.

women make traditional tortillas in yucatan
Lydia Maria Chuc Ceme, 44, left, and Maria Alba De La Flor Pech, 47, cook handmade red corn tortillas at Mestiza de Indias in San Pedro Chenchelá, Yucatán, Mexico. Photograph by Bénédicte Desrus for Yucatán Magazine

Mestiza de Indias exemplifies how a sustainable, equitable, and prosperous future for communities in the Yucatán is possible. The project has become a model for sustainable agriculture and social responsibility and has the potential to inspire others to adopt similar practices and contribute to a healthier planet.

IG: Mestiza de Indias

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