A Traveler’s Guide to Yucatán’s Colonial Royal Road
The Camino Real, the historic road connecting Mérida and Campeche, was more than just a route—it was a lifeline that shaped the economic, political, and cultural fabric of the Yucatán Peninsula.
Work on the Camino Real, or Royal Road, began in the 16th century and served as a vital artery for trade, communication, and cultural exchange in Mexico during the colonial era. It took several decades for this route to reach the Yucatán Peninsula, but to call it rustic would be generous. It was initially little more than a dirt path, which, when possible, utilized sections of existing ancient Mayan roads known as Sacbes.
It’s easy to forget that as early as the mid-20th century, and the construction of a highway, the Yucatán Peninsula was considered a real backwater, separated from the rest of the country because of dense jungles, mountains, and a lack of natural waterways connecting it to central Mexico. But even then, a trip between Mérida and Mexico City took at least three days (something my father loves reminding me of whenever I jetted to the capital for the weekend).
But it was in the 19th century that the first major strides in shedding Yucatán’s isolation began with improvements to the Camino Real between the region’s two most important cities, Mérida and Campeche, as well as the then-preeminent port of Sisal. For context, consider that Quintana Roo to the east did not even become a state until 1974, as before, its population was so small that it remained a territory.
While it’s impossible to follow the exact path of the old Royal Road, most of it has been destroyed by more modern infrastructure projects, but parts of it remain, as do the communities it connected.
With time, the Camino Real between Mérida and Campeche would become almost entirely connected by cobblestone roads used to ease travel for peonies (agricultural workers) and the likes of Empress Charlotte of Mexico in 1865, when she is said to have taken a detour to visit the ancient Maya city of Uxmal.
La Ermita: Our point of departure in Mérida
In Mérida, the Royal Road began in the Ermita neighborhood through the arch of San Juan. However, it was customary to first take mass at the nearby Ermita de Santa Isabel chapel — built in the 17th century — to help ensure a safe journey. Depending on the period, the “typical” route and scheduled stops varied slightly, but for clarity, we will stick to the main way points and points of interest along the way to Campeche.
Umán: the first stop
Roughly 20 kilometers south of Mérida is Umán, a town that served as a crucial rest stop for travelers and caravans. During the colonial period, Umán was known for its agricultural production, particularly maize, which sustained both locals and those passing through. Its location made it an essential point for resupplying before continuing the journey westward. Today, Umán is considered a satellite of Mérida and is known for its market and impressive former convent of San Francisco de Asís, which today functions as the city’s main Catholic church and landmark.
Maxcanú: The Crossroads of the Peninsula
About 60 kilometers southwest of Mérida, Maxcanú emerged as a key crossroads on the Camino Real. This town was a junction where routes from different parts of the peninsula converged, making it a hub for trade and transportation. During the henequen boom, Maxcanú thrived as a commercial center, facilitating the movement of goods between the interior and the coast.
Halachó — Let’s get a move-on
Halachó’s name means “place of the Halach Uinic” (a Mayan term for a high-ranking leader or ruler), but in a callback to its location on the state line between Yucatán and Campeche, “Halacho” has come to mean “let’s get going.”
The town’s location, at the edge of the state of Yucatán, made it an ideal resting spot for travelers, who could replenish their supplies and rest before continuing their journey. Today, traces of the Camino Real can still be found in and around Halachó, offering a tangible connection to the past. The road’s legacy is evident in the town’s layout, with its central plaza and surrounding streets reflecting the traditional design of colonial-era settlements.
Bécal: The home of Jipi Japa hats
As the Camino Real entered the state of Campeche, travelers would reach Bécal, a town famous for its artisanal jipi japa hats (also known as Panama hats; just don’t tell the locals). These finely woven palm fiber hats symbolized the region’s craftsmanship. Bécal also served as a rest stop, offering weary travelers a chance to recuperate before continuing.
Calkiní: a lofty nickname
Known as the “Athens of Campeche,” Calkiní is a testament to the region’s rich history. Once an important Maya settlement, it became a significant colonial town along the Camino Real. Its historic architecture, including the San Luis Obispo Church, reflected the blending of indigenous and Spanish influences that defined the region.
Hecelchakán
For those in a hurry, Hecelchakán was often the final stop on the way to Campeche’s capital of the same name. As part of the colonial road network, Hecelchakán became a cultural and religious exchange point. Missionaries used the road to spread Christianity, and the town became a center for establishing churches and other religious institutions. For a tiny town, though not so tiny anymore, Hecelchakán boasts some awe-inspiring architecture and intrinsically decorated facades. Today, the town is very lively and charming, and it is certainly worth a stop.
Hampolol – almost there!
The tiny community of Hampolol sits on the outskirts of Campeche and boasts one of the best-preserved sections of the Camino Real and a bridge used to cross the tiny town’s wetlands. The earliest reference to this bridge dates to 1649. However, it had been upgraded to carry heavier cargo by the 19th century at the latest, when Empress Carlota made her way across this forgotten marvel.
The Hampolol Bridge is an example of colonial engineering and reflects the architectural styles of the time. It was constructed using traditional methods and materials, such as stone and lime mortar, which were common at the time. The existing highway to Campeche entirely bypasses Hampolol, so if you want to visit it, you must make a U-turn just after passing the town and enter through a narrow road.
Campeche – we are there!
San Francisco de Campeche, now known simply as Campeche, is a historic port city on the Gulf of Mexico in Campeche, Mexico. Founded in 1540 by Spanish conquistadors, it became one of the most important cities in colonial New Spain due to its strategic location, thriving economy, and role in the Camino real.
The city was a vital link in the transatlantic trade network, connecting New Spain with Europe. Ships from Campeche carried goods to Spain and returned with European manufactured goods, tools, and other supplies. Campeche also facilitated trade within the Caribbean and other colonial ports in the Americas, including New Orleans. The Spanish built extensive fortifications to protect the city and its economic interests, including walls, bastions, and forts like San Miguel and San José. These defenses helped safeguard the flow of goods and wealth from the likes of famous pirates like Henry Morgan and Francis Drake.
Senior Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a Mexican expedition/Canadian photographer, adventure leader, and PhD candidate. Born in Mérida, Carlos holds multimedia, philosophy, and translation degrees from universities in Mexico, Canada and Norway.
