Durango’s Enigmatic La Ferrería is Mesoamerica’s Northernmost Archaeological Site

Part of what makes Mesoamerican archaeology so spectacular is its vast scope. Whether we are talking about architecture, climate, or geology — this amazing region runs the gamut.

A millennia of erosion and sacking have badly damaged la Ferreriá, but despite this the archaeological site is key in our understanding of Mesoamerica and its relationship with more northern civlizations on the continent. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatanán Magazine

These extremes are especially evident the further one gets from the regions one often thinks of as the cultural cores of Mesoamerica  — for example, the Maya world and the Valley of Central México. 

La Ferrería is a remarkable archaeological site in southern Durango and a must-visit for anyone visiting the region. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

While Mesoamerica’s exact landmass is a point of contention, especially regarding its borderlands, the consensus is that it runs south of the Mexican city of Durango down to the Gulf of Nicoya in Costa Rica. 

If we take this definition seriously, the archaeological site of La Ferrería, just a few miles south of the city of Durango, would be Mesoamerica’s northernmost archaeological site.

A hummingbird takes a break perching on a dry branch at the archaeological site of La Ferrería in Durango. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

This does not mean no interesting archaeological sites are north of La Ferrería. It’s just that these sites are considered in a region called Aridoamerica. 

As one would expect, with la Ferrería serving as a defacto border between Mesoamerica and Arridoamerica, the site presents a mix of features representative of both regions.

Much of the pottery found in southern Durango shares more in common with archaeological sites in Mexico’s far north and southwest of the United States than Mesoamerica. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Given a lack of surviving texts, the history of La Ferrería is especially difficult to decipher, though its first inhabitants are believed to have been Nahua-speaking peoples who settled in the region roughly 2,000 years ago. 

Some have associated La Ferrería with Aztlán, the mythical ancestral homeland of the Aztecs, though no archaeological evidence supports this claim.

The city reached its zenith during the Postclassic period under the rule of a people known as the Chalchihuites, but evidence of several other cultures, including the Zacatecanos and Paquimé, has also been uncovered. 

When arriving at La Ferrería, the first feature likely to catch the eye is a sunken patio with descending steps on three sides.

Like many of the site’s structures, La Ferrerìa’s sunken patio is reminiscent of Mexican architecture. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Directly in front of the sunken patio is an adobe structure with two entranceways on either side. Given its remarkable state, it has been restored several times and perhaps even rebuilt entirely. 

The interior of the stucco house at la Ferrería offers a fascinating glimpse into how ancient Nahua peoples lived in Northern México. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Following the path up the hill where most of the structures at La Ferrería are, one notices the remains of several larger ruins that likely served as public plazas or elite residences. 

The arid climate and powerful winds that sweep the region have left the archaeological remains at La Ferrería in relatively poor condition but still satisfying to explore. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

The most prominent structure at La Ferrería is a pyramidal structure known as Casa de Sacerdotes — or the House of Priests.

The House of Priests features a complex aqueduct and drainage system and several stairways and ramps. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Atop the House of Priests is another sunken patio that likely served ceremonial purposes, as considerable amounts of burnt organic material have been found in stone and ceramic vessels. 

The House of Priests likely had a roof made from perishable materials that have not survived the ravages of time. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Adjacent to that is a ceremonial ballcourt with a configuration similar to those found further south. The presence of a ceremonial ballcourt at La Ferrería is interesting but not all that surprising, given that such structures can be found as far north as New Mexico and as far south as Central America. 

La Ferrería’s ballcourt has survived but is in poor shape. Excavations have shown that it once was considerably larger, with a ceremonial precinct at its northern end. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

One of the site’s most interesting features is a temple to the wind deity Ehécatl, whose cult was particularly common in central Mexico. 

Though severely damaged, La Ferrería’s Temple of Echèatl fascinatingly ties the city into a much larger Mesoamerican context. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Surrounding the main archaeological site, it is also possible to observe ancient artworks left behind by nomadic peoples that likely predate the foundation of La Ferrería.

Handprints and petroglyphs are found across southern Durango and offer a glimpse into the most remote history of the region. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

If you go

La Ferrería is just five miles south of the city of Durango, near Hacienda de la Ferrería, which was once an important center for smelting iron ore. 

Hacienda de La Ferrería is worth a visit. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Because the archaeological site of La Ferrería is so close to Durango, it’s easy to take a taxi or ride-sharing service. 

La Ferrería is extremely dry, so bring plenty of water and moisturizer. Maps: Google

Given La Ferrería’s altitude of nearly 7,000 feet and steep incline, it’s wise to take it slowly, especially if feeling lightheaded. 

A winding mountain road, as seen from La Ferrería, Durango. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Carlos Rosado van der Gracht
Carlos Rosado van der Gracht
Born in Mérida, Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a Mexican/Canadian blogger, photographer and adventure expedition leader. He holds degrees in multimedia, philosophy, and translation from universities in Mexico, Canada and Norway.
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