High in the arid hills of the state of Zacatecas lies La Quemada, one of Mesoamerica’s most enigmatic ancient cities. La Quemada, Spanish for “The Burned,” makes reference to evidence of a large-scale fire that appears to have engulfed the city sometime in the year 900 C.E.
Like many Mesoamerican sites, the ancient name of La Quemada has been lost to time. Archaeologists struggle to agree on who first built this city, though many theories abound.
Some believe the masons of Teotihuacan built La Quemada as a forward-operating base for conquest and trade. Others believe the city was a Toltec outpost, while still others maintain it was built by the Purépecha of Michoacan.
A controversial theory, though the one most often cited, says that La Quemada is actually the fabled location of Aztlán. According to legend, Aztlán was the first city built by the Nahua people, who emerged from the mythic cave of Chicomóztoc and thus began their migration to Central Mexico. The Mexica, the last of these groups to arrive, would establish the Aztec Empire here.
This theory has been popular since the 15th century, but no archaeological data has been found to back up this claim. Still, the size of La Quemada and its remoteness from the Mesoamerican heartland has kept folks speculating for centuries. The fact that the dates can be made to fit the theory lends credence to the legend and will likely keep it alive until proven otherwise. Regardless of who built La Quemada, there is no denying that it is magnificent, both in size and in the elegance of its structures.
When entering La Quemada, the first structure you are likely to notice is La Salón de las Columnas or Columns Hall. This large enclosure houses several large stone columns supported by a stucco roof. Research carried out since the 1950s suggests the chamber was likely the site of rituals and perhaps even human sacrifices.
Just outside Columns Hall sits a large sunken patio that is believed to have served as La Quemada’s main market area. This market would have been crucial for local merchants to sell their wares and for folks from regions across Mesoamerica to meet and exchange ideas.
Its Votive Pyramid is one of the most often photographed and distinct structures at La Quemada. Today, the staircase of this pyramid reaches only a few meters above its base but at one time, it continued up to the summit where it’s likely a smaller temple or cornice lay on its top.
La Quemada is home to multiple ballcourts, with its largest located north of the Votive Pyramid and built in the classic “I” configuration. The ballcourt is 230 feet long by 50 feet wide, making it one of the largest in northern Mesoamerica. None of its markers or rings survive to this day.
Directly across from the Votive Pyramid is a large staircase that begins the ascent up several levels to the top of La Quemada’s citadel.
Up a few levels, you can get a real sense of La Quemada’s immensity and notice the labyrinthine nature of several of its elite residences.
As you continue to climb, give yourself some time to rest and take a few deep breaths. The site is, after all, nearly 1,000 feet above sea level.
On the citadel’s fifth level, there is a ceremonial center complete with a set of unique structures and evidence of the charred human remains of sacrificial victims or captives of war.
A series of chambers and rooms sit at the very top of the citadel. These were likely used as lookouts and signaling stations.
Exploring the summit of the site provides an opportunity to view the remains of the walls that once served to protect La Quemada from attack.
If you go
La Quemada is roughly a one-hour drive from the city of Zacatecas, in the state of the same name. Because this area of the country has been rather unstable for the past few years, it is a good idea to visit the site through a travel agency that is up to date on local security issues.
Despite being by far the most visited archaeological site in the state, La Quemada is by no means a busy place. Unless you visit at Easter or during some other major holiday season, you are likely to have the site to yourself. Just remember to bring enough water and be mindful of where you step.
