The sleepy town of Muna is famous for two things. First off is its proximity to famous Puuc archaeological sites such as Uxmal and Kabah, which make it a tourist hub of sorts.
After Chichén Itzá, Uxmal is the most visited archaeological site in the state of Yucatán and boasts spectacular architecture. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Second, the town is famous for its hill just to the south, which is the highest point in the state of Yucatán.
Drone photography of Muna and the surrounding region from atop the “cerro de Muna,” which, despite being the highest spot in the state, is just 60 meters, or roughly 200 feet, above sea level. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
The pleasant town of Muna is home to roughly 10,000 people, most of whom are of indigenous and mestizo heritage.
In Yucatán’s smaller towns and villages, it’s still common to see people wearing traditional garb, something which in Mérida has become less common. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Traditional identities are strong in Muna, with many locals seeing themselves as the direct descendants of the mighty Xiu who ruled over Uxmal and the entire region.
In Muna, it is still possible to observe a handful of homes built using the foundations and materials of prehispanic constructions. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
When asked, the people of Muna are keen to speak about their glorious past, so it is unsurprising to see representations of Prehispanic culture all over the place.
Figures such as rain god masks and Chaac Mool can be seen adorning the walls and facades of numerous family homes in Muna. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
But as it turns out, you don’t need to leave Muna to see ruins, as the archaeological site of Muna Sur sits on the outskirts of town.
The ruins of Muna Sur can be found just off the road, camouflaged by thick vegetation. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
The archaeological site itself is fairly modest in size but is a great example of early Puuc architecture and sits above an artificial platform.
Structures in ancient Mesoamerica were typically built atop artificial platforms to signify status but also to avoid flooding. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Muna Sur was surveyed and partially restored in the early 2000s but has since been almost entirely consumed by vegetation.
The artificial platform and archaeological site are dominated by a large three-chambered structure which likely served as the elite residence of a local ruler.
Even a closeup aerial shot of Muna Sur’s largest structure makes its outlines and true size difficult to make out. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
The rooms or chambers found inside the structure are quite large and contained and were likely vaulted instead of roofed with perishable materials.
The facades and interiors of elite residences in the Maya world were covered in stucco and usually contained niches for religious artifacts, as nearby cooking areas and access to fresh water. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Some scholars argue that given the humidity of Yucatán, it is likely that elite members of society maintained large stone residences but actually lived and slept much of the time in much cooler homes roofed with palm leaves.
Maya homes built according to traditional designs can still be found in the Yucatán’s countryside, though they are becoming more and more rare. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
The residential complex in Muna Sur can be dated to the early classic period, given its architecture featuring a simple molding pattern and a lack of stone adornments like rain god masks on its facade.
Though early Puuc architecture lacks many of the features which make the style famous, it’s important to keep in mind that this perception may simply be a product of the fact that much of its embellishments were made of painted stucco, which does not survive. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Within the site, it’s also possible to see fairly well-preserved limestone carved walls that would have supported multiple structures.
The construction methods of the Maya were certainly designed to last, though everything has its limits. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
At Muna Sur, we can also see evidence of what appears to be a ceremonial platform, likely used to perform dances or rituals. Then again, it may turn out to be the foundation of an ancient kitchen.
As is still the case in much of Yucatán to this day, kitchens were usually detached from residences as the smoke produced by its wooden stoves would have made the environment quite uncomfortable. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
If you go
Visiting Muna Sur is well worth the trip, especially if you find yourself in the region and are the type of person who enjoys exploring archaeological sites off the beaten path.
The walls of a large but badly damaged structure in Muna Sur. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Muna Sur has no parking lot, so drivers avail themselves of a nearby clearing on the side of the road.
The archaeological site of Muna Sur is about an hour south of Mérida. Map: Google Maps
If you find yourself in Muna in the morning, stop by Doña Rebe’s Lonchería El Regalo de Dios, Calle 26 125, for some of the best tacos you are ever likely to have. The roadside restaurant is near the northernmost entrance to town and opens at 6 a.m.
Doña Rebe serves up all sorts of regional fare, but the tacos, especially the ones made with relleno negro and chicharra, are particularly amazing. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Other points of interest in town include Muna’s colorful cemetery, adorned with murals representing Mesoamerican death iconography, including the lord of the underworld Ah Puchand his divine messengers.
In Maya folklore, hummingbirds are considered to be both a sign of good fortune and mediums between this world and the next. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Born in Mérida, Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a Mexican/Canadian blogger, photographer and adventure expedition leader. He holds degrees in multimedia, philosophy, and translation from universities in Mexico, Canada and Norway.
