The long and storied history of Aké, the place of reeds
Meaning “place of reeds” in Yucatec Maya, Aké is 32 kilometers / 20 miles from Mérida in the municipality of Tixkokob. Just a few years ago the dirt road and overgrown vegetation leading to Aké made the trek rough for most vehicles and their paint jobs. Thankfully there is now a proper road and it’s possible to park in a nearby field adjacent to the archaeological site and hacienda.
Aké offers visitors a glimpse into a couple of different eras of Yucatán’s storied history. For lovers of antiquity, the Mayan ruins will surely be the main attraction, but the 19-century San Lorenzo de Aké hacienda warrants some attention as well.
Although the advent of synthetic fibers all but destroyed the henequen industry, the link between this rough material and the development of the Yucatán can not be overstated. Plantations of henequen, also known as sisal, created vast fortunes that fueled Yucatán’s boom and led to the region’s rapid growth. On the other hand, the henequen industry relied on the labor of tens of thousands of indigenous workers who were treated not much better than slaves.
One can only imagine what went through the heads of the Maya workers at places such as Aké as they toiled in the hot fields and rested in the shadow of ancient temples which attested to a very different time. Local tour guides at San Lorenzo de Aké hacienda demonstrate how henequen was processed using 19th- and early 20th-century technology. The large and heavy machinery is interesting as are the techniques used to create the fiber.
The archaeological site at Aké is limited to a handful of structures, but in antiquity, the city was considerably larger and covered several square kilometers. Archaeological evidence suggests that Aké was first settled by the Maya sometime in the 2nd century BC and reached its zenith sometime in the 9th century AD before being abandoned a hundred years or so before the arrival of Europeans.
The ancient city is bounded by two concentric walls which protect the core of the main structures at the site, as well as a large housing complex.
Aké has two distinct architectural styles. The first corresponds to its early history and is megalithic, which is to say built out of large carved stones. The second phase of the city corresponds to a more refined Puuc style but also has features characteristic of talud-tablero architecture imported from central Mexico.
Remains of a Sac-be, or Mayan road, are also visible and connected Aké with Izamal approximately 40 kilometers to the east. There is good reason to believe that Aké had very close ties with Izamal, and may have even become a vassal kingdom to the great city in its latter history.
The temple known as the palace is a large step platform topped with stone columns that likely supported a thatched roof. Its architecture is reminiscent of similar structures of its era found in other ancient cities such as Chichén Itzá and Mayapan.
Directly across from the palace stands severely eroded stelae from which archaeologists have amazingly been able to extract important details pertaining to the chronology of the settlement.
The main pyramid at the site has four levels and terraces that wrap around its outer walls. At the top of the structure, it is possible to see evidence of archaeological excavations of smaller structures within the pyramid, a common practice among the Maya. The corners of the structure are nicely rounded, much like in Izamal, and have megalithic slabs that extend from the pyramid and which would have been covered with stucco, featuring colorful murals.
To the north of the main pyramid are several structures including a oval base pyramid and the foundations of a residential complex.
As with all archaeological sites in Mexico, it is prohibited to bring in food or drink — other than water. The entrance fee is 55 pesos Monday through Saturday. And on Sunday admittance is free for Mexican nationals and foreign residents of Yucatán (with ID).
Senior Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a Mexican expedition/Canadian photographer and adventure leader. Born in Mérida, Carlos holds multimedia, philosophy, and translation degrees from universities in Mexico, Canada and Norway.
